Only Cub Cadets

PLEASE PATRONIZE OUR SPONSORS!

CC Specialties R. F. Houtz and Sons Jeff in Pa.

P&K Cub Cadet Machtech Direct

Cub Cadet Parts & Service


If you would like to help maintain this site & enhance it, feel free to donate whatever amount you would like to!




Go Back   Only Cub Cadets > Cub Cadets > IH Cub Cadet Tractors (GT)

Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 08-03-2009, 03:29 PM
IanC's Avatar
IanC IanC is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 53
Default Blown motor?!

Hey guys, I need a little help diagnosing a possible blown 10hp on my CC 100. I was mowing today and all of a sudden a loud banging sound came from the motor and it died. This motor has smoked since I got it a couple of months ago. I added some oil & MMO before I started it today.After I pushed it back into my shop, I pulled the plug and spun the motor and I felt "compression." I took the starter belt off and spun it hoping the s/g could be the culprit(couldn't be that lucky), it still made the banging sound.
Does this sound like a busted wrist pin? I'm by no means an expert on the inner workings of these motors.
What is the worst case scenario I could be facing? I'm fairly mechanical and feel I could disassemble and reassemble a motor if it needed it. What all work would I need a machine shop do(hone the cylinder, valves,...)?
I really like this tractor and feel it's worth fixing, my wife on the other hand may not be so enlightened on the matter. I gave $400 for it and would hate to have to drop way more than that into fixing it.
Thanks, Ian
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 08-03-2009, 03:46 PM
Matt G.'s Avatar
Matt G. Matt G. is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Wichita, KS
Posts: 5,661
Default

Pull the head for starters. If you can still feel compression, you might have cracked the piston or something. Wrist pins don't break. Check for continuity between the piston and crank. If nothing seems amiss, I'd drain the oil, pull the motor, and take the pan off. Your problem will likely be obvious.

If you use aftermarket parts, a new piston and rod will run you less than $100. Double that (at least) for OEM. You'll also want a new governor gear, gasket set, etc. while you're in there. I don't know what machine work costs...the bore and crank on my 100 were both within spec yet... I'm going to guess $100 to $200 for machine work if you do all the disassembly/reassembly yourself.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 08-03-2009, 04:03 PM
IanC's Avatar
IanC IanC is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 53
Default

Thanks Matt,
As soon as the wife gets home, I might sneak out to the shop and tear it down. I'll update what I find.
Ian
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 08-03-2009, 04:05 PM
Merk Merk is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,186
Default

With the spark plug out can you see the piston go up and down?
I would remove the head to see if the valves go up and comepletely down.
Check the cylinder wall and the top of the piston for scoring on the cylinder wall and burnt piston.

Rebuilding a motor is easy to do. You need a Kohler service manual if you don't have one. The tech area in this site has a manual that you can download. When I rebuild a motor I check the cylinder wall for taper. Odds are the motor will need to be bored, crank journal may need to be undersize .010, valves will need ground or replaced depending on what they look like. Valve guides may need replaced. I would change the governor gear if it is plastic. Check the head for flatness.

I have an automotive machine shop bore the cylinder and grind the valves.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 08-03-2009, 06:02 PM
IanC's Avatar
IanC IanC is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 53
Default

I pulled the head and what a mess!
The side of the piston is blown out. The debris galled the head pretty bad. There is still compression though. The valves are very crusty. The smaller of the two(sorry I don't know which is exhaust and which is intake) is so crusty that it doesn't even come close to closin all the way. The cylinder wall looks pretty good despite all that.
I'll post some pics after I get back from dinner.
Ian
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 08-03-2009, 06:45 PM
Matt G.'s Avatar
Matt G. Matt G. is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Wichita, KS
Posts: 5,661
Default

The exhaust valve is the smaller one...notice that the exhaust valve is in the port on the engine that leads to the exhaust pipe, and the intake valve is in the intake port that the carb bolts onto

If you don't have an engine manual, this is a good time to download one from this site, or from Kohler's website...don't even think about trying to rebuild an engine for the first time without a manual.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 08-03-2009, 10:45 PM
IanC's Avatar
IanC IanC is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 53
Default

Thanks for the tips.
Here are some pics of the carnage. I pulled the oil pan and everything underneath looked fine to my untrained eye. Like I said earlier, the cylinder looked alright to me also.
To make this even worse, I just got home from the Rocky Mtn IH Rendevous and took this 100 there. I drove it around all weekend, bragging and getting many looks and then this happens.
Will the service manuals tell me what special tools I may need?
Ian
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 10hp 001.jpg (56.5 KB, 61 views)
File Type: jpg 10hp 003.jpg (38.2 KB, 61 views)
File Type: jpg 10hp 005.jpg (35.8 KB, 61 views)
File Type: jpg 10hp 002.jpg (52.3 KB, 60 views)
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 08-03-2009, 10:50 PM
Matt G.'s Avatar
Matt G. Matt G. is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Wichita, KS
Posts: 5,661
Default

Yep, the manual will tell you most anything you'd need to know. I'd completely disassemble everything and measure the wear in the bore and the crankpin, for starters.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 08-03-2009, 11:24 PM
IanC's Avatar
IanC IanC is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 53
Default

Forgot to ask before, the head has some damage on the combustion chamber side. Can this be gound smooth, or is this head junk?
Ian
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 08-03-2009, 11:32 PM
Merk Merk is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,186
Default

Do you have a good automotive machine shop near by that will do the machine work on a small motor?

You should use micrometer(s) to measure the bore and crank pin journal.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:01 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.

Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

This website and forum are not affiliated with or sponsored by MTD Products Inc, which owns the CUB CADET trademarks. It is not an official MTD Products Inc, website, and MTD Products Inc, is not responsible for any of its content. The official MTD Products Inc, website can be found at: http://www.mtdproducts.com. The information and opinions expressed on this website are the responsibility of the website's owner and/or it's members, and do not represent the opinions of MTD Products Inc. IH, INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER are registered trademark of CNH America LLC

All material, images, and graphics from this site are the property of www.onlycubcadets.net. Any unauthorized use, reproductions, or duplications are prohibited unless solely expressed in writing.

Cub Cadet, Cub, Cadet, IH, MTD, Parts, Tractors, Tractor, International Harvester, Lawn, Garden, Lawn Mower, Kohler, garden tractor equipment, lawn garden tractors, antique garden tractors, garden tractor, PTO, parts, online, Original, 70, 71, 72, 73, 76, SO76, 80, 81, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108,109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 182, 282, 382, 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 805, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1015, 1100, 1105, 1110, 1200, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1604, 1605, 1606, 1610, 1615, 1620, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1912, 1914.