Replacing ISOs - easiest way to unbolt engine?

cledford · #1 05-05-2011, 11:58 AM

I need to replace the ISO mounts on my 1450 - what is the easiest way to remove the engine from the chassis to get at the mounts? I understand that the engine is bolted to 2 rails that are then "sandwiched" between the ISO mounts. I believe the bolts through the ISOs come up through the frame rails. It would make sense to remove these and then pull the engine & rails together - but I've been looking a lot of rebuild pics recently that show tractors (in various stages of being refurbished) with the frames with the rails (with cradle mod) and ISOs installed in the frame - without the engine being mounted. This has led me to wonder if it is easier to pull the engine first (without unbolting ISOs/rails).

Thanks,

-Calvin

westofb · #2 05-05-2011, 01:00 PM

I don't have a quiet line (149), but have looked at a lot of threads about them here. Most everyone recommends the modification to the engine mount...I would think if a person wanted to do this, you would need to have the cradle bolted to the engine to at least tack weld in the piece that connects the 2 halves of the cradle. I would tack weld it in with the cradle bolted solid to the motor, then remove it and finish off the welds...that way you don't have to worry about getting all your measurements exactly right.

I think that basically your tractor differs from mine as far as the engine goes is the iso-mounts, So I would remove the engine first, it is attached by 4 bolts that thread into holes in the oil pan, I am thinking the iso-mounts have a bolt and nut which maybe very difficult to get to with the engine in place. So removing the engine would only require unhooking the fuel line and gas tank mount (unbolt the fuel tank as a unit from the dash tower), choke and throttle cables, unhooking the wiring harness from the engine (yours has an actual starter motor and stator I think), removing the 4 bolts from the oil pan that secure the engine, and then unhooking the drive shaft (again, not sure if they differ or not here, mine simply pulls apart as you lift out the engine). Oh yeah, yours has side panels, take them off first! Unless you have some type of engine hoist, I recommend a double batch of Wheaties that morning for breakfast!

If you just wanted to change the iso-mounts, that might be able to be done with everything in the tractor assuming you have a good assortment of hand tools....but that is a question better answered by someone who has one.

CC1450 · #3 05-05-2011, 01:35 PM

I'm not a big guy by any stretch of imagination and was able to lift my 14 horse kohler out and set it on the ground without incident. They are not too bad.

westofb · #4 05-05-2011, 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CC1450

I'm not a big guy by any stretch of imagination and was able to lift my 14 horse kohler out and set it on the ground without incident. They are not too bad.

I never said it was a man killer!

But they are heavier than you think, well really more ackward than anything...I have a hoist but chose to lift my out by hand as well. I think I will use the hoist when it goes back in so I can be careful not to scrape the new paint!

JOHN SCHUTTE · #5 05-05-2011, 02:27 PM

A hoist would be ideal if removing the engine with the ISO rails attached. The motor and ISO rail "assembly" can not be lifted straight up. The front of the engine/rails must be tilted down and then slid back and out to remove. This is because the rails interfere with the frame. I have not done this but, I have mocked up my rails on an oil pan and tested it on my puller project. Using a rail/oil pan assembly to test this is better than running into issues when time to install my motor.

steve59 · #6 05-05-2011, 02:39 PM

If you’re not planning on a cradle mod right away, these can be changed easily with a pry bar and simple hand tools. I've do this numerous time out on service calls when I worked for my local IH dealer.

cledford · #7 05-05-2011, 04:30 PM

Because of a previous PTO shaft oil seal leak (since fixed), I'd like to pull the engine to clean all the oil off the underside when I replace the bushing - so they don't rot out quickly. So, either way, I'll have to pull the engine and the rails. Is it easier to do them separate or together?

Thanks,

-Calvin

_DX3_ · #8 05-05-2011, 05:15 PM

I am pretty sure I pulled my motor first then pulled the cradle out. You will have to raise the front end up high enough to allow the front axle hang completely down on either side as you have to get a wrench in there to remove the two front motor mount bolts.

Mine with the cradle mod.

CC1450 · #9 05-05-2011, 05:23 PM

you are looking at four bolts from the mount rails to the oil pan, all which are easy enough to get at. Remove those and lift the engine off the rails, then unbolt the rails and mounts. It took me about 30-40 minutes to pull the engine out of my 1450 with basic hand tools once I got to it.

truckntran · #10 05-05-2011, 07:55 PM

All this time I have been doing it backwards? Been pulling engine with rails attached, in my 1200, 1250, and 1450. I'm gonna have to try it the other way now!

None of mine have the cradle mod, so the rails can move independently....which makes for some interesting lineup issues if you are trying to reinstall to the oil pan. Which is why I thought it would be easier to mount the rails to the engine then install to the chassis. Now when I do the cradle mod to the 1450 project I will try it the other way. I do know lining up the Iso mount bolts is a royal pain and requires some finesse when the engine is there in the way.