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#1
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Well I finally got around to taking the piston out of my 100, only to see the top ring in 3 pieces. So I took it the machine shop only to find that it is a 10hp block with a 12hp piston in it and that the cylinder is egg shaped. It will take approximately another .020" bored out to get it back into shape. My question is should i just have it completely rebuilt and just be done with it or what? All suggestions are welcomed.
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75 Cub Cadet 1650 64 Cub 100 not cub but its yellow 62 allis chalmers b-10 |
#2
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I would other wise you may being on a big headache later
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#3
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You have plenty of room to still overbore it. K301 blocks have +.030 pistons and it is the same block. Have no fear.
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104 to 127 conversion with dual 6x12s, hydraulics snow/dirt plow 1200 Quietline 44" mower QA-36 snow thrower |
#4
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ok good i just didn't no if it would be worth it but if it has lasted 40 years already hopefully i can get another 40 years out of it
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75 Cub Cadet 1650 64 Cub 100 not cub but its yellow 62 allis chalmers b-10 |
#5
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Mine was a K301 block - I bored it to almost a 14hp. I think the bore is 3.410. It is Awesome! The vibration is bad, but its so strong....
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104 to 127 conversion with dual 6x12s, hydraulics snow/dirt plow 1200 Quietline 44" mower QA-36 snow thrower |
#6
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Definitely, while that block is stripped - polish the intake and exhaust ports. It doesnt have to be super smooth, but to get the casting lines and ' pits ' out of the ports makes a noticable difference.
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104 to 127 conversion with dual 6x12s, hydraulics snow/dirt plow 1200 Quietline 44" mower QA-36 snow thrower |
#7
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William - I was just reading some controversy over polishing the intake port. One argument is that you get better fuel atomization with the rougher intake, as it supposedly creates more turbulence. There was no argument on the exhaust ports, smooth is good there.
I dunno, sounds like a plausible argument... |
#8
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You could also sleeve it if you wanted it as a K241. Just throwing it out there for kicks.
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