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  #1  
Old 11-01-2020, 07:55 PM
alignak alignak is offline
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Default Cub 128 Starting Issues

Hello all,
I bought a Cub 128 from the original owner a few years back. It came with several implements and I have used it to mow my yard and work my garden. I've replaced several parts and kept it running well, but I have an issue now that I need some help with.

The tractor just recently stopped starting. Here are the conditions: turning the key, the starter turned the engine over just fine but engine wouldn't run. I replaced the spark plug as I was not getting spark at the plug. No luck. I checked the points and noticed I wasn't getting spark there even after cleaning them. I checked the coil using a meter and got 5 ohms resistance. So good coil. I then checked the positive terminal of the coil with the switch on and I am not getting juice there. Battery is good. Voltage regulator looks good. Wires seem ok. Last thing, I ran a jumper wire from the positive post on the battery to the positive terminal on the coil and then turned the key and she fired right up.

Do I have a bad switch? Just wanted some opinions before I got spending $50 on a switch. Thanks!
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  #2  
Old 11-01-2020, 08:00 PM
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Cubcadet_107 Cubcadet_107 is offline
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That sounds like a bad switch to me, unless the wire from it to the coil is bad somewhere. It could be, but assuming the wiring is good like you say it is, don't think there's anything else that can cause that thing to happen.

I say, replace the switch, if it isn't the issue, well, at least you've saved yourself from having to replace it later
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  #3  
Old 11-01-2020, 09:18 PM
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Billy-O Billy-O is offline
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You need to back track from where you have no voltage. Keep going back until you find the volts... The farthest you can go is all the way back to battery. It's really not that far. It could be after the switch or before the switch. I won't buy a new switch unless I'm certain switch is bad. I'm not familiar with the 128 wiring but there could be a safety switch long the way of the electrical path from battery to coil. (Seat? PTO?). Or a wire could be bad.
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  #4  
Old 11-01-2020, 10:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billy-O View Post
You need to back track from where you have no voltage. Keep going back until you find the volts... The farthest you can go is all the way back to battery. It's really not that far. It could be after the switch or before the switch. I won't buy a new switch unless I'm certain switch is bad. I'm not familiar with the 128 wiring but there could be a safety switch long the way of the electrical path from battery to coil. (Seat? PTO?). Or a wire could be bad.
Come to think of it, I agree with that. Check the neutral safety switch. Should be just above the linkage from the clutch pedal. Not sure if the 128 has any other safety switches, but I do know that even the wide frames had a neutral safety switch.
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'70 107 with k301 engine swap
'71 106 with 38" deck
'70 147R with factory replacement k321, 42" deck
'61 Original with 38" timed deck
'63 70 "pinkie"
1863 with 54" deck
'46 Farmall H, '50 Farmall Cub

105 x2 (parts)
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  #5  
Old 11-02-2020, 07:11 AM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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First, welcome to OCC.....

I agree with the others. It is either the Ignition Switch or a broken wire in that circuit.
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  #6  
Old 11-02-2020, 10:20 AM
alignak alignak is offline
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Thank you for all the suggestions! I do have trouble with the safety switch on the clutch sometimes, but when it acts up, the starter won't turn over. Since the starter is turning, I hopefully have ruled out that switch, but I'll give it a look since it sometimes causes issues. I don't believe I have any other safety switches, but I'll do a little research. I've traced the battery to coil wires the best I can and haven't seen any worn spots. I think I'm going to try the ignition switch and see if that fixes it. If not, looks like I will probably have to run new wire. One thing I forgot to mention is that the ignition switch is original and is pretty worn. I can crank the tractor with a screwdriver in place of a key lol.


I'll come back and update the thread if the switch works just in case anyone needs it in the future. Thank you all for having such a great community!
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  #7  
Old 11-02-2020, 11:41 AM
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The terminals on the key switch and the plug tend to corrode over the years. Check that before getting a new switch.
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  #8  
Old 11-02-2020, 06:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R Bedell View Post
First, welcome to OCC.....

I agree with the others. It is either the Ignition Switch or a broken wire in that circuit.
What Roland said...
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  #9  
Old 11-07-2020, 11:05 AM
alignak alignak is offline
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Just to update everyone. I received a new switch and she cranks right up now. Thank you for all the help and for these forums. If it wasn't for this place, I wouldn't have known where to start looking. I was born after points ignition systems were obsolete so I had to take a crash course on the ignition system lol!
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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