Cub 107 Fly Screen issue

[Avie02]

Good Morning All,
I have spent the better part of my morning messing with my flyscreen as it appears the previous owner may have done some work or the small bolts that attach it to the pulley have just fell out over time. I can't seem to find any direct info in the manual for disconnecting the driveshaft to gain access to this screen and i'm definitely not experienced with this component. Is there an easy way to disconnect this shaft? The only video I could find was in reference to a 127 and it required moving the motor forward. If i have to slide the motor forward is there any other components to this driveshaft i should give love to while it is tore apart? I'm sorry to hit the forum so quick on this issue but I was really hoping to just have a peaceful mowing of the yard today but i'm afraid to run it while this screen is not secure. Thanks in advance for any knowledge you lay on me.

-Jessie

[R Bedell]

Jessie:

See attached image from the Parts Manual.

See item #4 (Coupler Arm). There are two, one on each side of #50 Flex Disc. They are secured to the shaft with Spirol Pins (#51). There are four sets of bolts that sandwich the Coupler Arms to the Flex Disc. Remove the four sets of bolts, pound out the two Spirol Pins, then the Coupler Arms are free to move on the shaft. You may have to loosen the Fan Shroud (#6) to allow lifting. You should be able to find the clearance to pull the back of the shaft up & out of the way. This will allow the front of the Drive Shaft to disengage from the Drive Cup(#2).

[Avie02]

So I was able to get two bolts out of the flex disc so far and should be able to get the other two but my reach is limited due to the large trans filter. I can't seem to get the pin at the front of the shaft to budge so i'm really worried about the ones in the back. Should I just remove the trans filter for the clearance and just change the fluid/filter in the trans while i'm at all of this. I love this old tractor but I swear it is trying to test me lately. I really appreciate the diagram.

[Cub Cadet 123]

Yes, now would be an excellent time to change your transmission filter, before mowing season really starts. As far as changing out your fluid in the rear end / transmission, well that would require you to remove the back plate off of the rear end. You can if you want to but that means buying a new gasket and sealant. It is not necessary to do, but it probably has never been done in the last 40+ years. Usually, just changing the filter is sufficient. There are 4 bolts that hold the engine to the frame. The back two are easy to get to, but the front two require you to jack up the front of the cub cadet high enough to teeter the front axle. Then place blocks or something to hold it up and secure the back tires so it doesn't take a roll on you. Use a box wrench to get into the bolts as you teeter the axle down for each one. Then your engine is free and able to be slide forward while you make your repair. This is assuming that you have removed the 4 bolts at the back coupler behind the engine.

Cub Cadet 123

[Avie02]

Thank you, I did end up going this route and unbolted the engine and slide it forward. I attached some pictures of the front coupling as I have a gut feeling it isn't suppose to have those notches, please let me know what you guys think. I was able to get the front pin out of the drive shaft yet but it does appear to be worn so I'm going to see if I can find somewhere to order one. Do you guys have some magic trick for holding the crank in place to loosen the pulley(hydro lift) nut from the crank to gain access to the fly screen?

As for changing the filter only, I will have to look into that process as I assumed the fluid would need to be changed as well but I really appreciate the help.

[Jeff in Pa]

That drive hub is very worn. It's not supposed to have those notches in it.

It needs to be replaced. You should also check the driveshaft where it goes in the drive hub and also on the back end where it goes in the rear coupler.

The driveshaft on the hub end is 5/8" ( .625) and the "nub" on the back is 3/8" (.375). The rear coupler hole should be round and and 25/64" in diameter ( .390 )

I make replacement parts ( "Parts By Jeff" at the top of the page) and can make you a package deal on the driveshaft and drivehub or for a drivehub, driveshaft and rear coupler. Your tractor, the choice is yours.

Jeff

[Avie02]

So while I have some time down waiting for a new screen hub from ebay and a complete shaft kit from Jeff. I figure I will take the advice to give the trans some love. The tractor has seemed to have some issue maintaining speed recently and I'm hoping the filter and fluid will be the fix to that. And with all that wear in the drive shaft I'm sure the new parts will help as well. Thanks in advance.

[R Bedell]

Did you look here ??? ....... Hydro Filters

[Avie02]

I did! Was able to find everything I was looking for and it is ordered and on its way. Thank you. Still trying to get this crankshaft nut loose though, going to be a frustrating day.

[Cub Cadet 123]

Use some PB Blaster on it for a lubricant and a socket with extension. Have fun!

Cub Cadet 123