Confusion on Tiller set up....

[Mountain Heritage]

I need some help/clarification on some things. I have re-read the thread that Wildbill wrote on attaching a tiller to a 1450 again, and am a little confused? I have bought a tiller finally (hope to have it home next weekend). It is Series 2 tiller that is in mint condition. I need to adapt it to fit onto my stock 982. I have not completed the sleeve hitch on the tractor yet (I still have to make the lower part of it). So as to the length of things, that can be changed.

I read in other threads that the mule drive needs to be changed in order to run a tiller properly (ie belt tension). It was stated before that a mule drive that runs a "C" deck will not work due to the angle of the pullies as well as the fact that only one side has a bolt tensioner? Is this correct? Here is the mule drive that Wildbill used to operate his series 2 tiller on a 1450: tillermuledrive - wildbill.jpg

If I am understanding what was stated before....this style of mule drive can't be used? It seems to work fine for Wildbill's application?
Here is what I have for a mule drive on my 982 which currently runs a 50C deck with no issues - but will it run a tiller? 982 stock mule drive.jpg
If I need to change my mule drive, does anyone have a picture of the one that I need to use? I have never seen one with two adjusting bolts on the pullies to adjust the tension on the drive belt going to the bearbox.

If my mule drive will run this tiller I bought....technically all I need to do is find the new pully to mount on the bottom side of the gear box (change to 5/8" width instead of the current 1/2" wide pully) to mate up with the pullies that are currently on my 982? tiller gear box.jpg

Next the big thing is to figure out how to mount the tiller to the frame around the gear box so I can get the tiller into the ground more. Then again, I am not too sure how deep it will go now without modifying it? I am thinking its best to drive the tractor up on some blocks, level it up nice, then attach the tiller the way it is set up now and lower it all the way to see how deep it will till? I mean really I am only planting a garden with the deepest thing growing into the ground would be carrots or sweet corn. So 5 to 6 inches of tilling depth is plenty as far as I am concerned. If I want to get deeper than that I can always modify it later - but I don't see any reason to have it tilled any deeper really? As far as getting it loosened up beyond that 5 or 6 inches, that can happen in the fall when it is plowed.

This is the tiller I bought....series 2 tiller May 2010.jpg series 2 tiller May 2010 II.jpg


Any thoughts or opinions would be great!

[CMA's129]

You need the mule drive with the straight pullys and the spring tensioner. you replace the spring with an adjuster bolt, I made mine with a piece of 1/8" steel 1x2" with a hole dilled in one end for the pully bolt to go thru and about a 4" piece of allthread welded to the other end to go out thru the hole where the spring attached, You'll need a fender washer there because the hole is big. And you have to have the solid pully at least on the left side, If not at least one of the new models that is welded all the way around. If you try to use one of the old spot welded pullys it will explode in pretty short order. I think I was very lucky not to destroy the $80 belt

[Mountain Heritage]

Sorry, I can't seem to see that there is a "slant" or "canter" to the pullies? Does anyone have a picture of the straight style your talking about? So what kind of pullies are on the straight style? They cast or what? I guess I need to do more shopping if mine won't work? GREAT!

[Matt G.]

It's not the pulleys themselves, it's the brackets they connect to on the mule drive. Take a look at yours and you'll notice they are bent slightly, as the belt for the deck doesn't go straight back, it goes off to one side.

[Sasky]

This is the mule drive that I use on my 1450 with my tiller.

[Mountain Heritage]

Okay! Now I stand under!!

So the pullies on the mule drive that is pictured for use with a tiller.....what material are they made from? Cast, steel, ???

Since I am putting it onto a 982, what am I looking for .... a wide frame style mule drive? If so, is there a specific measurement I am looking for, or do I just go measure mine? Are they all the same, either wide or narrow frame - only the two widths?

What about the belt guide that Wildbill showed in his, it is a requirement....does the belt actually slap around and risk taking out the bottom tube?

Best place to buy a new pully for my gear box is where? Cast I am assuming?

Anyone who has made one of these....woth the time to messing with or is it easier buying one?

[Matt G.]

I've never run a belt guide on mine. You can use any WF mule drive with 5/8" idler pulleys. I'm not sure that they made the billet steel pulleys for the 5/8" belts. I've never heard of/seen them. I think you can probably get away with the normal ones used for the mower deck as long as they are in good shape.

[Mountain Heritage]

Ok, so they can be either cast or the stamped out or rivited steel ones....

Any thoughts on making one of these Matt? They worth the hassel, or just look for one to buy?

I am correct in assuming you measure the width of a pully on the inside lip where the edge of the belt runs at the widest point in the V?

[brad121075]

I just got my first cub (a 129) about 6 weeks ago so I'm no expert.

but...

I'm using my tiller to excavate for a retaining wall and have been switching back and forth from tiller to dozer.

The first few times I ran the tiller I used the wide frame mule drive with the quick attach deck lift still installed on it. I left the original spring on it and snugged the tension adjustment up a bit. Only spit the belt twice in about 6 hours of tilling. Once when I found a huge rock and then a buried tree stump.

In an effort it simplify the switch over cycle I removed the deck lift from the mule drive and it started spitting the belt repeatedly. I reinstalled the lift to see if it was related and discovered that the lift was acting as a belt guide.

I'm tilling in very hard clay full of baseball to softball size fieldstones and haven't had a belt pop off unless the tiller snags an immovable object. Almost seems to be acting like a safeguard, shear pin style.



Have I stumbled on to something?

[Mountain Heritage]

Well, the tiller arrives today...can't wait! Think I will be able to finalize a deal on a NOS mule drive today thanks to a forum member. Will have pictures to post soon as long as the rain holds off.