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#1
12-04-2010, 04:24 PM
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hey everyone, bad news
hi everyone,
i just put some parts on my 129 today, and everything went really well. i put the head gasket on, the new coil, condenser and spark plug wire. I started it up, it fired up, and i started to drive it. well it was smoking like crazy, it was doing that last week as well. side note: when i took the head off there was like a little "puddle" of oil on the piston, i'm guessing that's due to worn rings. but here's the kicker. it just died when i was using it. it could be a million reasons, but i checked the obvious, spark, fuel air etc. but then i took a closer look and noticed it spun too easy..like the piston wasn't moving. now i believe that the piston isn't moving...and that's a problem. Lol. if the piston isn't moving, is that the connecting rod that may have broke? any other ideas? sorry for the long post guys. i love this dang thing and it kills me to see it down and out. thanks in advance for everything! 
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#2
12-04-2010, 05:02 PM
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Sounds like the tell tale signs of a broken rod if the motor spins, and keeps on spinning with no effort. Pull the head, and turn the motor by hand to verify this. Sounds like its time for a rebuild. I know its frustrating, Ive been in the same boat more times than I like to admit, but its just the nature of these old machines. Get her fixed up right, and you'll have a great reliable machine for a long time....
Jeff (teet)
__________________
CCC 1211 71 127  102 122 1962 Original
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#3
12-04-2010, 06:19 PM
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Jeff, thank you for your response.
Well under further investigation (i took the head off again) i discovered that the piston broke, the top came off the bottom. I was able to take the broken piece (which was most of it) out and look down and see the rod and it was working fine...altho a little scratched up. so apparently its a piston and rings i need.
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#4
12-04-2010, 06:51 PM
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Get a new rod too...don't take a chance on one that's been in there for an unknown amount of time. Aluminum connecting rods have a finite lifespan. Scratches from pieces of the piston hitting it are only shortening its life more by creating stress concentrations where fatigue cracks can start.
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#5
12-04-2010, 06:52 PM
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No problem...I usually hear the "death rattle" then the lasting whine of a flywheel spinning with no resistance....never a fun moment
 Check the specs on the cylinder with a bore gauge to make sure you don't need to punch it out .010 over....if thats good, Id hone it and replace the rings, piston, gaskets and seals. You might consider the rod too if you have it apart already.. Good luck, and let us know if you need any help.... Jeff (teet)
__________________
CCC 1211 71 127 102 122 1962 Original
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#7
12-05-2010, 01:00 PM
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Matt and Jeff, thank you very much for your repsonses and help.
To be honest, this isn't something I think I want to take on myself. I'm most likely going to take it to the shop for piston, ring, and rod. There could be other stuff that needs replacing, but for those three main things, what kind of price am I looking at? I know its very subjective, but all I'm looking for is a ballpark very general price. If anyone can suggest one, that'd be good. Thank you all.
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#8
12-05-2010, 01:16 PM
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No problem :biggrin2.gif: To be honest, I have no idea what it would cost to have a shop rebuild it for you. I have always rebuilt my own engines. The closest I've gotten is having my engines bored by automotive engine builders before, and thats anywhere from $30-50 in my neck of the woods depending on the bore size. You could potentially be looking at $300+ dollars for a rebuild if its a smaller shop....this is only a guess. I know when I buy rebuild kits I always get Kohler OEM parts. I get every gasket, seal, and piece needed to do a proper rebuild as well as basic tuneup items to finish the build like points, plug, wire, etc. I'm thinking I probably spend in the $200 range for parts...this can vary depending on the vendor.
Jeff (teet)
__________________
CCC 1211 71 127 102 122 1962 Original
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#9
12-05-2010, 01:17 PM
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OEM Kohler parts, probably $200. I'd also replace the governor while you are in there.
If you have the tools and the service manual, there is no reason you can't do the disassembly and reassembly by yourself and just farm out the machine work. With current shop rates you will save a lot of money. These engines are simple and are not difficult to take apart and put back together as long as you follow the service manual.
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#10
12-05-2010, 01:18 PM
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Here is a list of parts and costs, mainly from NAPA, but from the OEM section of the catalog:
This might give you a rough estimate, then add shop charges and machining charges if needed. The service manual can be downloaded free. I think it is in the Tractor Library here. Parts Cost.jpg
__________________
DWayne 1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck 10" moldboard plow 2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP
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