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  #1  
Old 10-11-2010, 08:45 PM
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jeffscub jeffscub is offline
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Default manual release valves

Guys,

How do I know when I need to replace the hydro release valves? They are manual type. Do they pop up when the motor is running? OR, do they release when the lever is pulled and automatically pop back up? Can they be cleaned and serviced? thanks jeff
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'72 108 w/ 38" HIGH speed deck, '77 1200QL w/ homemade grader blade, '79 1450 44" grass tamer, '70 sears super 12 w/ 3pt , 19?? 100 w/ extra toys, 69' economy powerking 14 horse w/ FEL, 65' economy powerking w/ toys, 1982 allis chalmers 716


Jeff
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  #2  
Old 10-11-2010, 08:59 PM
angry1 angry1 is offline
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My experience with them has been checkered I pushed the poppet down and it released the pressure as advertised BUT the poppet did not pop back up needless to say I had to remove the valve clean it the best I could heat the poppet until it worked free and it works normally.

I will use that feature with care, I am a cheapskate, and didn't want to spend the cash on something I may never use again so I tried the clean and lube it worked for me but your mileage may vary.

Operation: they stay up for me the transmission works as advertised push them in the pump pressure is not send to the transmission and you can move the tractor freely


You can get new ones click on the link http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=3
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  #3  
Old 10-12-2010, 09:14 PM
clint clint is offline
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Actually the best thing would be to cycle the valves so they would not stick... once a year would probably solve all of these problems, at oil change or so so you could do a general maintenance. I will link to some websites below, and my battle with the check valves, I ended up purchasing a used set which one was stuck, I did repair one successful, however I have a lathe so keep that in mind, and it was a huge help. If these valves had been made to disassemble there would never be an issue with the valves at all, they are that easy to fix once you get them apart.. but you have to get them back together with good workmanship, and no worries about holding !!

If I were to do it again instead of tacking with a welder/brazing I think it might be better to cut them using the lathe, then leave a small shoulder to press them back together using epoxy for a mind ease.. and max press fit tolerance.

On edit if your hydraulic check valves are failing/collapsing when the engine is cut off I think you have either weak or broken springs inside, they should hold up by them self as the spring is pretty stout.

http://cubfaq.com/relief1.html

http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=473
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  #4  
Old 10-13-2010, 04:43 PM
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jeffscub jeffscub is offline
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i took them out and thoroughly cleaned them. i sprayed PB blaster in the little nibs and worked them in and out for a while. now they spring back push after push. i put them back in the tractor for a more accurate trial and they work perfect. in fact they work so well that i'm gonna offer my buddys' $50 back on the tractor!!!!! and tinker with it!!! thanks! jeff
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'72 108 w/ 38" HIGH speed deck, '77 1200QL w/ homemade grader blade, '79 1450 44" grass tamer, '70 sears super 12 w/ 3pt , 19?? 100 w/ extra toys, 69' economy powerking 14 horse w/ FEL, 65' economy powerking w/ toys, 1982 allis chalmers 716


Jeff
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  #5  
Old 10-13-2010, 06:23 PM
ricks ricks is offline
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clint, nice job on the valve repair, and pics. i'm doing my hydro now and my valves are a little stuck. i'm going to try some pb first ovrnite. i wish i had more big boy shop tools. i've had the experience, but no toys. way back when i was in the navy we learned how to weld first, then salute. hats off to your project.
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  #6  
Old 10-13-2010, 06:40 PM
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_DX3_ _DX3_ is offline
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Congrats on fixing the valves. I love that feeling of accomplishment when a plan comes together.
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