1975 CC 1450 - engine cradle question and general advice

[WiscoCaset]

Good morning!

A little over a year ago, I purchased a 1975 1450 that is in generally good condition.

It felt like the engine mounts might need replacement, so I decided to dig into it this winter. I have the engine removed and am planning to do the "engine cradle mod". However, I noticed that some of the holes that the bushings go through are not perfectly round. I wouldn't say they are terrible, but would something like what is pictured cause another problem in the future? I'm wondering if I need to build the holes up and redrill them so they are perfectly round again.

The second question I have is regarding ignition coils. The engine seems to run well, but I've gone through a few coils. I've done all of the troubleshooting I can find on various threads, and keep tracing it back to the ignition coil. The coil has a warranty, and the tractor starts right up when it's replaced.

The coil I'm using is an automotive coil, but the specs match the OE coil. However, I've read a couple things that lead me to believe this issue could be caused by two things:

1. The vibration of the engine is damaging the windings
2. The coil is mounted sideways, and the side of the coil that is "up" is not adequately cooled by the oil inside the coil.

I have read that the OE coil is filled with epoxy, not oil. Are the reasons above perhaps why they're not filled with oil? Also, would I be better off mounting my coil remotely, or just getting an OE coil? I'm wondering about the longevity of replacement OE style coils (not that my oil filled coil has been reliable, but at least I can get a replacement easily in town).

Thanks in advance, I'm all ears!

[1711Cub]

Are you using OEM Kohler points and condenser? The aftermarket points are enough off that if you gap the points to spec, the timing will be off. Not entirely sure that substandard condensers and points will shorten coil life, but I would stick with the original Kohler parts. If it was epoxy filled, it was done for a reason. Cars typically don't shake as much as a vintage K series engine.

As for the cradle, I would make sure the hole is closest to original size and shape to ensure longer bushing life.

[R Bedell]

First, welcome to OCC........

Cradle Mod's?? Repair the hole(s) to OEM size.

Coil: From experience, the only two Coils that work trouble free are the OEM Kohler and the Bosch #00012 coil.

I also have a 1450 and years ago, I moved the Coil to the Dash Tower location.
I found (a) less vibration, and (b) less heat.

[1711Cub]

Originally Posted by R Bedell

First, welcome to OCC........

Cradle Mod's??

https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ead.php?t=4630

[WiscoCaset]

Originally Posted by 1711Cub

Are you using OEM Kohler points and condenser? The aftermarket points are enough off that if you gap the points to spec, the timing will be off. Not entirely sure that substandard condensers and points will shorten coil life, but I would stick with the original Kohler parts. If it was epoxy filled, it was done for a reason. Cars typically don't shake as much as a vintage K series engine.

As for the cradle, I would make sure the hole is closest to original size and shape to ensure longer bushing life.

Thank you! Points have not been changed, the condenser is definitely an aftermarket. I'll look at OE replacements for those and the coil, to hopefully ensure a trouble free mowing season.

I'll work on the engine rail holes. Looking on eBay, the ones I'm seeing there are either expensive and/or the holes look to not be much closer to round than mine are.

Originally Posted by R Bedell

First, welcome to OCC........

Cradle Mod's?? Repair the hole(s) to OEM size.

Coil: From experience, the only two Coils that work trouble free are the OEM Kohler and the Bosch #00012 coil.

I also have a 1450 and years ago, I moved the Coil to the Dash Tower location.
I found (a) less vibration, and (b) less heat.

Noted, I'm going to look into the OE coils and repair the engine rail holes. I may also consider remotely mounting the coil as you suggested. Thanks!

[ol'George]

When you are ready to weld the cross brace, it is helpful if it is bolted to an engine oil pan so the welding stress does not make the bolt holes become off location.
Have you checked the bolt holes in the oil pan for good threads?
The aluminum pans tend to wallow out quite a bit making the bolt threads useless.
The Aluminum pans can be replaced, using the stronger cast iron pans of the same design.
Also, if the bolts were loose for a long time the pan mounting bosses most times get hammered badly and will not tighten down flat.
Same problem with the cradle mounting surfaces.
just things to check if you haven't already.
One last caution, use adequate length engine to cradle mounting bolts, BUT not too long!!
Because if too long, when tightening them up tight, you will crack out the bottom of the blind holes, and it will weep oil making you think it is the pan gasket leaking, but in reality, you broke out the bottom of the blind hole.
I've seen it happen a few times to people.

[finsruskw]

Also, keep in mind, welding up the cradle mod using a pan for a guide.

The welding operation will/may have a tendency to "pull" the long ends together somewhat. You will notice this when removing the bolts from the guide pan after welding.

Some "tweaking" may be needed to line the holes back up to the pan when reassembling

To avoid that "WTH" moment when you are trying to align the pan bolts in those easily accessible holes, make SURE they are going to fit BEFORE installation to save a lot of grief

[WiscoCaset]

That is all good information, thank you.

I hadn't considered using an oil pan as a guide, but the engine mounting bolts were all still tight when I removed the engine. I plan to reuse those bolts.

As for welding the reinforcement, what I did is leave the rails bolted in place and tack the reinforcement in place (with a c clamp on each end of the reinforcement, holding it to each rail). After that, I plan to remove the entire thing from the frame, and finish welding it on a welding table. It is pretty thick steel, so I'm hoping it will not be prone to warping like thinner sheet metal can be. To play it safe, I will likely keep my welds fairly short and allow adequate cooling time between welds.

[greg r]

Here's my experience with the same cradle problem. No 1, make sure the oil pan holes are clean and the threads are not galled, worn, or partially stripped. I had to replace the one on my 1650 because 2 of the holes had some of the threads stripped. I used Grade 5 bolts and torqued to spec for Grade 5 with a dab of blue threadlocker. It's been close to 200 hours run time on mine and they are still tight. No 2, Use CC sourced mounts and bushings. They're more spendy than knock-offs but they do the job. They come in kits with the correct bolts. I didn't need the cross brace. When everything is tight to spec it will act as a unit without extra support. Some want the extra insurance so it was 50/50 with me.

Check your coil's primary resistance. The right coil should be 3.4 - 4 ohms. Lower ohms will allow too much current and then it overheats. I saved the hassle and went with the Kohler coil. I've only had to buy one. It might even survive a key on engine off, but it gets hot. Now the key goes with me no matter what if the engine is off. Mount the coil anywhere, it don't care as long as it has juice and can reach the spark plug.

[twoton]

I wonder if a non Kohler regulator/rectifier may cause the coils to fail?