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#1
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My 125 pulls my plows as it should and engine is rebuilt and strong, but reverse seems to be “part-time” functioning. I have it full of new, proper hydro fluid and an IH filter. It’s behaving like I need more travel on the forward/reverse lever, or as if the swashplate isn’t traveling far enough. Rarely, it won’t back up at all. So I consulted the IH manual and I ensured brakes are properly adjusted first, then proceeded with the hystat adjustment. Reverse is stronger and no change to forward, but still intermittently performs weak in reverse. I have a dirt pile I need to spread, and I need reverse to be able to push it with my grader blade turned around. Has anyone else ever experienced this?
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#2
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Just a quick thought I had. What condition are your relief valves? IIRC one of them is for forward and the other for reverse, there is a chance that your reverse one is starting to malfunction. This could be tested by swapping their places and seeing if forward becomes occasionally weak.
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![]() '70 107 with k301 engine swap '71 106 with 38" deck '70 147R with factory replacement k321, 42" deck '61 Original with 38" timed deck '63 70 "pinkie" 1863 with 54" deck '46 Farmall H, '50 Farmall Cub 105 x2 (parts) |
#3
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That’s a good idea, thank you! Can they be accessed without taking my tractor apart? I can see them with a flashlight if I take that rear cover piece off. The most in depth job I’ve done on mine is my K301 overhaul, I’ve never taken a tractor apart.
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#4
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You could, like the IH Engineers did with the WF tractors, cut a Access Panel in the Tunnel, to gain access. Then fabricate a new cover, to cover up the cut hole.
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1: |
#5
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I may be wrong here but I believe you will have to split the tractor to
access the valves. It is not as complicated as it sounds. The service manual actually has some pretty good instructions for the project. Once in there it will give a guy a chance to clean up lots of years of crud. If you have rebuilt the engine this will be no problem for you. I obviously don't have any way of knowing where your tractor budget sits but if I was going to go that far. I would send the valves out to rebuild. Then they are no longer part of the equation. Ken |
#6
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Is there a source on this forum that we can send the relief valves to? Are new ones available from Sundstrand?
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#7
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Machtech Direct
605 Furnace Rd. Conneaut Ohio 44030 Phone: 440-499-5813 Email: mark.machtech@gmail.com Mark is awesome to work with. Send him the valves and a week later they come back. I think they are around $80 a piece, to do. Ken |
#8
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Thank you West Valley
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#9
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Just pondering through other reasons for your reverse issues.
![]() Does your lever controlling forward and reverse have full travel? I think if it were me I would do a study of linkages and anything that pivots. Start at the hydro lever and go to the hydro and lube it all. It is amazing what some maintenance will change. And if you do that and still have troubles you can start tearing into things. And besides, then things will be all lubed up and ready to go. Ken |
#10
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Like Ken said, start with the lube, charts, simple things. I would pull deck, put safely up on jack stands. That way I could lube, crawl under, get a helper to move pedal, linkage, forward, backward, try to figure out before breaking apart. Cubs that sit will do this kind of thing. When I get it so pushing pedal down gets lever to easily jump into neutral, then start tractor to confirm. Good luck.
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