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  #1  
Old 12-15-2020, 04:52 PM
SJones SJones is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 29
Default 126 rebuild

I have a 1971 126. This was my grandfathers and I have all the manuals for it. I had the clutch leaver and bearing failed. I decided to over haul it instead of just fix the clutch. The engine is out. the clutch is mostly out. A couple of questions have come up.

The coupler for the drive shaft at the transmission. Is there an easier way than I have thought to pop that pin? I have a rod about the same size as the pin that is a foot long. It will take the pounding needed to push it out. That is the root I would go.

Do I need to get new pins , or are the old ones reusable? Assuming no wear to the pin.

I got the nut off the steering wheel. Cannot get the wheel off. The manual doesn't say anything past removing that nut. Is there more to getting wheel off?

Is there a make shift way to move the frame around for painting and such like using furniture dollies or other way that others here have used or do use?

Thanks Shane
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Old 12-15-2020, 05:33 PM
mortten mortten is offline
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Location: Peninsula, Ohio
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When I worked on the 122 I had the engine out so I just lifted it up to vertical and secured it. In that position everything is easy to get to. Fashion some kind of block to go between the frame and the connector before to start pounding away on the pins. Don’t want to shock the input shaft bearings. On the steering wheel I use a bearing splitter like this one.
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Doug

Dad's 122 w/42" cast deck, spring assist, lights,weights, rear lift
1250 w/hydraulic lift, lights,weights, spring assist.
50C deck converted to an A with front wheels
44C deck converted to an A with front wheels.
QA-36A
42" blade
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  #3  
Old 12-15-2020, 05:38 PM
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Cubcadet_107 Cubcadet_107 is offline
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Location: New York
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For steering wheel removal, many use a standard flywheel puller and build a special jig out of hardwood, which goes under the wheel and that's what the puller pulls on. I have yet to make one myself but there are pictures of them On the forum.
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'70 107 with k301 engine swap
'71 106 with 38" deck
'70 147R with factory replacement k321, 42" deck
'61 Original with 38" timed deck
'63 70 "pinkie"
1863 with 54" deck
'46 Farmall H, '50 Farmall Cub

105 x2 (parts)
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  #4  
Old 12-15-2020, 05:55 PM
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ironman ironman is offline
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for example....
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File Type: jpg swpuller0003.jpg (25.2 KB, 94 views)
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  #5  
Old 12-15-2020, 07:57 PM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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First off, get a set of roll pin punches for removing and installing the spirol pins.

I would not reuse the old pins, make sure the replacements are spirol pins and not the hardware store split roll pins.

If you have the engine out, stand the Cub up on its tail to access the drive shaft components
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  #6  
Old 12-15-2020, 09:29 PM
Ambush Ambush is offline
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Made this today after hearing about all the misery the spirol pins can cause.
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  #7  
Old 12-17-2020, 01:12 AM
SJones SJones is offline
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Ok. I will just get new pins. Some are rusted. I will fashion a block to support the coupler to protect the bearings. I will have to fashion a collar to pull the wheel. I do have a puller, but no collar that will fit the wheel.
Another question.
the tires are in good shape but are original. They do feel like the rubber is a little harder than the rubber on a vehicle tire. They still flex fine and no cracks. So when is a good time to get new tires?

Shane
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