For my 149, need Hydro and Rear End advice

[fried]

I am close to being able to start the engine on the 149 that i'm saving. Condition of the rear end and hydro are currently unknown. I'm looking for any advice or pointers on how to proceed.

Things i've done so far:
1) Forced release valves to the release position where they remained stuck and slowly pushed it about 50 yards into my garage. It may have been pushed/drug off the trailer a few weeks ago with the valves in the wrong position.
2) Popped rear plug out to check fluid level. It's definitely not up to the plug level but I can feel fluid when I stick my pinky down in the hole.
3) Took out release valves and worked them on the bench with wd-40/hammer/pliers to free them up. Put back on hydro and sprayed with more wd-40.
4) Observed that some of the bolts are missing behind the tires on both sides.

Based on y'all's expert advice should I top the hytran off and try it, replace fluid/filter and try it, or could there possibly be some damaged parts I will have to replace?
Are there any checks I can do right now to verify that the rear end is okay while I wait for my generator rebuild?

[Billy-O]

Originally Posted by fried

I am close to being able to start the engine on the 149 that i'm saving. Condition of the rear end and hydro are currently unknown. I'm looking for any advice or pointers on how to proceed.

Things i've done so far:
1) Forced release valves to the release position where they remained stuck and slowly pushed it about 50 yards into my garage. It may have been pushed/drug off the trailer a few weeks ago with the valves in the wrong position.
2) Popped rear plug out to check fluid level. It's definitely not up to the plug level but I can feel fluid when I stick my pinky down in the hole.
3) Took out release valves and worked them on the bench with wd-40/hammer/pliers to free them up. Put back on hydro and sprayed with more wd-40.
4) Observed that some of the bolts are missing behind the tires on both sides.

Based on y'all's expert advice should I top the hytran off and try it, replace fluid/filter and try it, or could there possibly be some damaged parts I will have to replace?
Are there any checks I can do right now to verify that the rear end is okay while I wait for my generator rebuild?

Often times the release buttons will pop back up when the engine is running.... So, besides the missing bolts, you really don't know what problems you really have until you run and test drive the tractor. Of course, you might consider changing the hydro oil and filter before firing up.

[Oak]

It takes a lot of foul play to mess up one of those. Jack the rear of the machine up so the tires are off the ground, pull the driveshaft off and hood up a drill to the input shaft of the hydro. Run the drill CCW rotation. You may need to fab something up so it will fit in your drill. Oh, WD40 isn't a penetrating oil, use PB Blaster or Kroil.
Good luck, let us know how it goes.

[finsruskw]

You will need a hefty drill motor to turn that input shaft!
Lots of torque needed for that operation.

[ol'George]

Usually if it has a 3/4" chuck to turn the shaft, it has enough power,
but lacks the necessary speed.
Oh, and you run out of extension cord eventually

[Mr Bob]

Those rear ends are built heavy duty. Hardly ever hear of one going bad. Change the fluid and filter and go about getting it ready to run. I have 3 149's.
The 149 is an awesome tractor. Just wish they had power steering. Little hard to steer with a snow blower attached. Enjoy your tractor and have a great day.
Bob

[fried]

Hey guys. Thanks for all the responses and feedback. I don't have a drill big enough to turn the shaft. I made a poor attemp to rig up something to my drill to turn the motor as the generator would. See attached pic.... Holds the generator pulley fine but barely enough tension on the belt to get the motor rpm going.

I have some hytran on order along with a hydraulic rated filter. I'll try and get the old drained out ahead of time and go ahead and change the engine oil too.

I don't have any PB Blaster here but mixed up some ATF and acetone to drop on the valves. They move MUCH better now.

[Jeff in Pa]

Since you're not trying to start it, remove the spark plug so it spins easier.

[fried]

Originally Posted by Jeff in Pa

Since you're not trying to start it, remove the spark plug so it spins easier.

Yeah. I should have removed it. I do hear compression though, which is a good sign.


I finally got the cover off. It took a good amount of force to break the gasket seal. The cover appears to have age lines just like trees have rings.

[mortten]

Watch putting the cover back on. The bottom 3 bolts are longer. You can crack the housing putting the longer ones on top.