Going to dig into my 1250 for some repairs... Anything to fix while I'm in there?

[DownNdirt]

So I am planning on disassembling my 1250 to do some much needed repairs and upgrades. I will be pulling engine and driveshaft and doing the cradle mod, replacing flex discs, fan, and replacing some gaskets in the engine (oil pan, breather, and possibly head gasket). Besides these, what else should I inspect or upgrade while it's apart? Thanks.

[ironman]

Steering gear box, all steering connections, drain & clean out hydro, hydro filter, brakes, wire harness and all connections, front wheel bearings, rear axle seals, hydro linkage, etcetera, etcetera, etcetera.

[DownNdirt]

I changed the filter and fluid a couple months ago, harness will be replaced down the road but for now it works. Internal brakes work great. Front wheel bearings are pretty new, but I didn't think of the steering box. I will have to give it a refresh, thanks for reminding me. Will be replacing tie rods when I get a chance (going to order some ham joints from mcmaster carrots for a few other projects anyway.

[R Bedell]

Add motor rail modification and ISO mounts to the list.

[AndrewNoyes]

Check to see if you need the trunnion fix. You need it if it doesn't hold speed well going up and down inclines.

[finsruskw]

Squeeze the front axle channel to get rid of fore, aft and front rear otation and replace pin and/or bushings if needed.

You don't want to be accuse of an MWI and wear out your newly rebuilt steering box!!

[DownNdirt]

I do have new ISO mounts and am going to do the one piece cradle mod. Need to get a bolt and nylock nut for the front axle. It was on my physical list but never got to the digital list. Trunion is good, fixed it when I swapped hydro lift over from my 1450 carcass last year (I think it was last year).

[finsruskw]

If you opt for a bolt in the front axle instead of a new OEM style pin, the head will have to be machined off quite a bit to clear the deep sump oil pan. It should also have a grease well machined into the center of the shank like the original pin has.

Make sure the bushings are in good shape as well and that the grease fitting in the center of the axle will take grease.

Disassemble the wheel spindles and bushings from the ends of the axle. Clean and inspect for wear. Clean an polish the steering knuckle spacers so the will spin freely in the end bores of the axle. The steering knuckle spacer (bushing) should be clamped tight between the ends of the steering knuckle when installed so they turn in the axle as an assembly, this is what the gets the grease. Make sure these grease fittings are clear and will take grease, flush them out.

You may discover upon dis-assembly that the knuckle bolts are what have been spinning instead and the spacers are stuck in the bores due to no grease causing much wear on the bottom of the axle ends. This is all pretty obvious as you will discover when you take the unit apart. These spacers may be stuck in the bores and you may find the bolts have been turning in the spacers instead of the other way around.

Make sure the grease passages on the bottom lip of the knuckle pivot points are clear. They my be heavily worn and need touched up with your disc grinder wheel.

Good Luck.
Nothing like a nice tight front end when driving one of the little tractors in a parade or mowing and plowing not having to constantly correct the steering to maintain a straight path.

[DownNdirt]

The tie rods are 3/8" correct? 2 Left and 2 right thread greasable heim joints are what I am going to order .

[finsruskw]

they are both right hand NF threads
Actually there are 4 joints.
2 on the drag link and 2 on the tie rod.
all right hand threads