149 hydraulics

[ab147]

I have recently purchased a 149 that creeps when in neutral, the brakes don't work, and after reading in the archives about the hydraulics have learned that the check valves need to be replaced. Are these check valves able to be serviced, or do I replace them. What lets you know that they are bad? The buttons are stuck down, and after oiling them they just stay there.
Another question, there is no rear lift mechanism on this tractor, can I use a lift from another tractor on this one. I have a 147 that I use a roto tiller on, and I had a 126 that I took the lift off, and was wondering if that will fit on the 149. Thanks

[CMA's129]

Clean the holes out around the buttons good with blaster then some compresed air. Somtimes the buttons wont pop up if the filter is getting plugged. On my tractor only one popped back up after a filter change. The other I removed and used a allunimun white eye nail the kind you use to nail trim coil on your house. Grind the point off so as to not mar the little ball in there and the nail will fit in the hole in the bottom of the valve just lightly tap it with a hammer until the button comes back up. Be careful not to get any dirt in there and keep you tractor running good so you dont have to ever push the stupid buttons down again.

[zelda]

I just did a trunnion repair. After I got it all back together One button was still depressed when I had to push it in the Pole barn. Anyway I couldn't get that button to pop back up. I ended up having to replace it at the cost of 140 beans! It's a whole different valve though. They discontinued those valves with the buttons. It's about 1" taller and its all automatic.

[CMA's129]

There was a source for check valves on here a couple of weeks ago for $48 a piece. they are still available at cub dealers I just priced them not to long ago when I had my last troubles. They are generaly cheaper at JD dealers If you have one nearby. They are rebuildable if you get sombody to cut the crimp off with a lathe and weld it back together. But the trick with the aluminun nail has worked twice for me. I will look around later on here to try and find the link again for the low priced ones.

[ab147]

Originally Posted by CMA's129

There was a source for check valves on here a couple of weeks ago for $48 a piece. they are still available at cub dealers I just priced them not to long ago when I had my last troubles. They are generaly cheaper at JD dealers If you have one nearby. They are rebuildable if you get sombody to cut the crimp off with a lathe and weld it back together. But the trick with the aluminun nail has worked twice for me. I will look around later on here to try and find the link again for the low priced ones.

http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=3

In the archives I read it this morning, thanks for the help, I had the valves out this morning looking at them,and wondered if pushing up on the ball would do anything. I'll try it tomorrow. thanks again.

[cledford]

Is the creeping in neutral a check valve issue, or could it be the hydro linkage is out of adjustment? (I don't know the answer to this question, BTW...) My just purchased (used VERY hard) 1650 has neutral about midway up the go side. reverse starts about where neutral is... It gets even goofier as the brakes automatically return the control lever to a spot other than N, the tractor wants to continue to go... Anyhow, I assumed this was all due everything being out of adjustment.

-Calvin

[Matt G.]

It's an adjustment. The procedure is in your service manual.

[ab147]

In regard to the check valves on my 149 they look just like the one's in the link I posted above. The tip may not stick out nearly as far as these do, and using the nail as CMA's129 has suggested didn't help. Do I buy new ones or is there something else I can try. Thanks.

[Matt G.]

If any part of the button is sticking up, you can carefully grab it with a vise-grip and rotate it in the valve. Spray it with PB blaster first. You'll eventually be able to pull it up while rotating it. After you get the button up, take some emery paper and polish up the outside of the button, and scrape rust out of the interface between the button and the top surface of the valve with a dental pick. Rinse it out with mineral spirits, and then get some oil down into the button from above, and then work it a bit. It should spring back up when you push it down at this point.

[ab147]

Matt G,
Thanks for the quick response.The PB blaster, is this some kind of penetrating oil.