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#1
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I removed the motor from my Cub Cadet 3225 lawn tractor to have someone else reseal it. I followed a really helpful online manual which showed step by step how to remove the motor from the rest of the tractor. Had no issue removing the motor and it will be getting it back tomorrow to reinstall. The issue I have is the drive shaft uses 8 barrel shaped plastic bearings on both the transmission end and the motor end of the assembly and I cannot figure out how I am going to keep the bearings on both ends in place while reinstalling the motor onto its brackets. Any help would be much appreciated.
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#2
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there are 4 bolts that you should have removed from the drive hub into the flywheel ...now that the barrels are out if you use a hose clamp around the barrels you should be able to put the hub back over them before the engine is set in place
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#3
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what was said above but instead of clamp I use duct tape
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JD x475 |
#4
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A dab of Vaseline will hold them also.
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This ain't no hobby....it's an addiction |
#5
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Vaseline, duct tape and hose clamp,
I'm getting a visual here, Can't wait to see a picture of the results. ![]() |
#6
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Cooperino 100, 104,125, 126, 2x129's, 804, 1211, 1641 |
#7
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Thank you for all of the responses. So from what I understand I want to secure the barrels to the drive shaft and then slide the drive shaft into the drive hub. Can I connect the hub to the motor first or should I have the drive shaft and hub connected together and then bolt to the flywheel?
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#8
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I just did this on a 2521. First one I ever did. After trying several times.........
I used a small grinder to slightly bevel the edges of the driven cup to make a lead for the barrels to slide in. I loaded the barrels to the driveshaft with a radiator hose clamp around them. Put a little grease on the barrels and shoved the driveshaft home. Same process on the engine end. Then I put the four bolts in the hydro and tightened them. Driveshaft now installed. I set the engine on the frame and slid it back to the driven cup and installed those four bolts. Bolted the engine to the frame. I think the 3000 series is the same way but don't know for sure as I never worked on one. |
#9
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So I got it in. the motor end all the pieces went together pretty easily the opposite end towards the rear of the tractor was a real pain but eventually I got it. refilled the fluids and fired her back up today. Had a really odd noise like a poorly made turkey call and after further inspection realized the bungee to keep the battery from moving was loose and the metal end was rubbing against the drive shaft.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
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