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  #1  
Old 05-10-2019, 11:11 AM
riflemann riflemann is offline
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Default Cub 1000 Engine/Clutch Alignment?

I am having trouble with lining up my engine with my new clutch assembly. Clutch and ISO mounts were bad so I took the clutch assem. to the cub dealer for rebuild. New disc, spring, resurface and all. I took the engine out and replaced the ISO mounts with cheapie rubber auto bushings. Everything went fine, started engine, all good till time to adjust new clutch.

I back off the nut all the way to where it almost comes off the rod and still not enough pressure to engage. Clutch completely released and I can see there is still a small gap between plate and disc while it is larger gap at the bottom of the plate than the top. The rubber cradle snubbers are also off the engine cradle about 3/8" of an inch.

I just need more clutch release and get better alignment.

Help! Will raising the rear of the engine make a difference?

I don't want to take it out and reinstall again if I don't have to. I need it to mow again.

Thanks!
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  #2  
Old 05-10-2019, 05:34 PM
twoton twoton is offline
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riflemann, It's been said before.."Lots of little worn areas add up to a lot."

See if this helps;

https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...878#post320878

Good luck.
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  #3  
Old 05-10-2019, 07:38 PM
dodge trucker dodge trucker is offline
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yup. I found that out, all the little bits of wear.... I didn't realize that there were so many spots for tolerances TO stack up.

and though it has been a few months since I last did a gear drive QL clutch, maybe it's CRS setting in/ but I thought you had to tighten that nut on the adjuster not loosen it.... I'm not looking at one this second, or I could say for sure. do you still have the flexi style 3 pin driver? Is it cracked out around the center? That could explain your misalignment. The last couple of QL's I did, got solid mounts and the cradle mod.... how tight did you tighten the mount bolts, how much squish do the new mounts have?
Ive used the sway bar link bushings before, but I used the harder urethane versions. not very squishy. there are so many hardnesses to rubber, its tough to say with what you say that you have in there. If too squishy, maybe you don't have them tightened evenly/ equally?
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  #4  
Old 05-11-2019, 07:49 AM
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ironman ironman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riflemann View Post
I back off the nut all the way to where it almost comes off the rod and still not enough pressure to engage. Clutch completely released and I can see there is still a small gap between plate and disc while it is larger gap at the bottom of the plate than the top. The rubber cradle snubbers are also off the engine cradle about 3/8" of an inch.

I just need more clutch release and get better alignment.
Question to you: Before you put the driveshaft/clutch assembly back in the tractor, was the clutch disk squeezed tightly between the pressure plates. It should have been. If after installation you now have a gap between the plates and disk with the the linkage disconnected then something is assembled wrong. Some pictures would help to determine what the problem is.
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  #5  
Old 05-11-2019, 08:58 AM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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How much free play do you have in the pedal?
With the clutch released, you should be able to spin the throw out bearing.
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  #6  
Old 05-11-2019, 06:16 PM
Merk Merk is offline
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What parts were replaced?

Did you use Cub Cadet or after market part (throw out bearing) ?
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  #7  
Old 05-13-2019, 10:51 AM
riflemann riflemann is offline
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Thank all of you for all of your replies. I checked and checked. Disconnected and reconnected. Pulled out my hair, started to have a big cry. Then, poof!

I have 2 more cubs, one is a 1200 and one a 1000. Took cover plate off over driveshaft on the 1200(the 1000 was up at my orchard in the barn). Compared the bearings and bushings on the 1200 to the 1000 in question. The bearing and bushings were installed(by the dealer) 1000 in the wrong order!!!! Or flipped around. Took it to the dealer, met with the service manager expecting the runaround. But no, he photo copied my invoice and he would make it right. It was 3 on Friday afternoon. I figured it would be ready by Memorial Weekend. But to my surprise he called me at 845 am the following morning and said come and get it, it is ready!!!!

I am thrilled, it runs great and it is refreshing to do business with someone who totally stands behind their work.
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  #8  
Old 05-13-2019, 12:19 PM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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I figured it was something like that.
At a dealer!! Never should have happened
Probably the first one he had ever seen
Just curious, how much did they soak you for the job??

You could have saved yourself all that hassle and done it yourself with a pin punch, vise, a brass drift, 2 small pieces of plywood to line the jaws with and a hammer.
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  #9  
Old 05-13-2019, 06:11 PM
twoton twoton is offline
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Glad you got it figured out.
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  #10  
Old 05-13-2019, 07:47 PM
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darkminion_17 darkminion_17 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finsruskw View Post
I figured it was something like that.
At a dealer!! Never should have happened

You could have saved yourself all that hassle and done it yourself with a pin punch, vise, a brass drift, 2 small pieces of plywood to line the jaws with and a hammer.
You forget the skinned knuckles and potty mouth at it's finest
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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