Clutch Pedal Return Spring Connection on Cub 100

[cnewell]

Looking for experience and opinions on how the clutch pedal return spring is supposed to be connected to the rod. I’ve seen a couple different ways and the manual diagrams don’t seem to be helpful. Is the end of the spring supposed to loop through the small hole on the end of the rod or is the circular curved portion of the spring supposed to slide over the end of the rod with a washer and cotter pin to hold it in place? Looping the actual end of the spring through the small hole seems like a good way to wear out the hole (as it is on mine currently). Sliding the spring over the rod and using a washer and cotter pin seems like it would reduce wear and keep tension better. Curious what you all recommend. I haven’t seen enough of these yet to make an informed decision.

Thanks!

[ironman]

cnewell, no offense intended, but at first I thought this was a dumb question (no such thing, right?) because I have always put mine together using the washer and cotter approach. Just seemed more logical to me because if the spring breaks at the loop and the rod falls out, you got no brakes.

But your question made me look at many gear drive model parts drawings and none of them show a washer/cotter. So the original intent must have been to put the spring loop through the hole. Maybe they didn't expect these things to still be operating 50 years later.

So good question after all, but what they like to say around here is "It's your tractor, do as you like"!

[J-Mech]

I think you will find that spring to be heavy enough that when you pull it to put it on, you will want it to go on easy. Trying to hit a hole is going to suck, and you will get pissed off really quick.

At the end of the day, the spring needs hooked to the lever. Which way you do it really isn't relevant as it works both ways, but I agree with Ironman. If the spring breaks, you lose the pin. Plus, as stated it's hard enough to get the spring on a pin, let alone stabbed into a hole. This question is one that really answers itself if you think about it, or go attempt the install.

[cnewell]

Thanks J-Mech and Ironman. As you say, I’ll find out soon nough when I go to reinstall the new spring. Since the previous set up when I removed it had the spring tip hooked through the rod hole I think I may try the approach of hooking the end of the spring over the rod and use the washer/cotter pin to secure it - seems more logical to me. And as you also point out, nice to have brakes even I feel the spring breaks!

[ol'George]

I'll add that on one of my rigs a spring is difficult to pull and hook.
so I put it on the front end first, and bend a loop in a coat hanger and pull from the back and hook it over the place it goes in back.
I think it is the brake spring on one of the 782's but it's been a while.
Just an idea that might work, or might not work in your situation.

[Bamafan]

While on the subject, Has there ever been a tool made to make them less difficult to install. I have used screw drivers, coat hangers, rope, wire, and lots of cuss words. not to mention skinned knuckles. Some go pretty easy but most are a PITA.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by Bamafan

While on the subject, Has there ever been a tool made to make them less difficult to install. I have used screw drivers, coat hangers, rope, wire, and lots of cuss words. not to mention skinned knuckles. Some go pretty easy but most are a PITA.

I've skinned my knuckles a few times too.
I like George's idea.
I've used brake spring pliers before with good luck.

[cnewell]

Hello Bamafan, ol’George, J-Mech,
Thank you for the recommendations and tricks for getting the spring reattached. I had no idea what I was in for since the removal was fairly straight forward. My paint job is drying but once that’s all cured I’ll be reinstalling the new clutch and of course this troublesome spring. Sounds like I’m in for some knuckle bruising fun. I’ll be sure to report back if I think of any slick tricks along the way but it sounds like all the experts have confirmed this is probably one of those jobs that doesn’t have a good tool or simple procedure. I’ll have to try the coat hanger wire and brake plier suggestions!

[Alvy]

Originally Posted by cnewell

Hello Bamafan, ol’George, J-Mech,
Thank you for the recommendations and tricks for getting the spring reattached. I had no idea what I was in for since the removal was fairly straight forward. My paint job is drying but once that’s all cured I’ll be reinstalling the new clutch and of course this troublesome spring. Sounds like I’m in for some knuckle bruising fun. I’ll be sure to report back if I think of any slick tricks along the way but it sounds like all the experts have confirmed this is probably one of those jobs that doesn’t have a good tool or simple procedure. I’ll have to try the coat hanger wire and brake plier suggestions!

I have used the methods listed by other members with success. I actually have a couple spring install tools. They have a t handle and a hook on the other end. They make them in different sizes too. Good luck with your project

[yettrbomb]

One of my favorite brake spring tools (for smaller springs) is actually a sealed beam headlight spring tool. I’ll try to remember to get a picture and part # at work tomorrow. Snap on #HE528. I think there’s a longer one also.