Narrow Frame hydro lift help

[cmathews1994]

I installed a external hydro lift on my 100 and everything went good have it hooked to the 3pt and using the cultivator. Got thinking about the snow blade the other day and was wondering how the front attachments hooked into it. I have the thing that would usually u bolt to the lift rod and i seen in the directions that it has to be cut down but do you drill a totally new hole and use a spacer or do you go in the same hole that bolts through the cylinder. And 1 more thing, what is the deal with float on an external unit like this? I will grab some pics and post them in the morning

thanks

[Stephen.Mellish]

First thing you need to do is read the installation manual in the technical library. It should answer most of your questions.

Hydraulic Add-on Unit for NF Tractors

[cmathews1994]

It’s already installed and I read it like stated in the post but thank you

[Cub Cadet 123]

For front implements, such as a snow/dirt blade, you will need to cut the lift paddle (that is what you have the you stated U bolts) in order to modify it. I do not know what you mean when you said the hole in the cylinder??? You should NOT have to drill any new holes in the paddle to use the implement lift. The only holes that you would need to drill are in the frame to mount the hydraulic lift itself and it sounds like you have already done that. You should be able to just bolt the lift paddle to your rock shaft bracket. I had to use longer spacers for my hydraulic lift, so I had to also make a modified lift rod that extends out, but you should not have to worry about that. Mine is because someone sold me an electric lift rockshaft, but told me it was for a hydraulic lift.

The float at the clevis allows the implement to "float" like the float button on the Armstrong lift handle. You should NOT use this with a snow/dirt blade on the front as you will want the down force in order to move the material and not float over the top of it.

If it helps, look under my profile, look in "My Album", then "My Cubs". Go to page 3 and bring up my 123 Snow Ready (1st picture). Enlarge the picture and maybe that will help you examine the set up.

or

Looky Looky at the 1st pict of this "hydraulic" lift (the seller calls it a hydro lift, but that no is correct):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/14287932031...MakeTrack=true

Cub Cadet 123

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by cmathews1994

It’s already installed and I read it like stated in the post but thank you

I think you would find the instructions give you the info you seek. However, we are having an issue with the tech library information at this time, so you cannot download it. Perhaps someone can email it to you has already downloaded it.

Originally Posted by Cub Cadet 123

The float at the clevis allows the implement to "float" like the float button on the Armstrong lift handle. You should NOT use this with a snow/dirt blade on the front as you will want the down force in order to move the material and not float over the top of it.

That is absolutely incorrect. You cannot and should not use down force on a front blade. You will bend the piss out of the rod that lifts it. The front blade lift mechanism is not designed for down force. You should always run a front blade in the float position. If it "floats" over material, then you will have to find another way to break it up. Besides, a blade works just like a plow. If it is sharp and adjusted right it should try to dig in. There are times it won't, but we have to keep in mind it's a very small blade. It will sometimes "float" over what we are trying to scrape off. In that case, you need a bigger tractor with a bigger blade.

Don't run the front blade with it locked down, or while using downforce.

[john hall]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

You cannot and should not use down force on a front blade. You will bend the piss out of the rod that lifts it. The front blade lift mechanism is not designed for down force. You should always run a front blade in the float position. If it "floats" over material, then you will have to find another way to break it up. Besides, a blade works just like a plow. If it is sharp and adjusted right it should try to dig in. There are times it won't, but we have to keep in mind it's a very small blade. It will sometimes "float" over what we are trying to scrape off. In that case, you need a bigger tractor with a bigger blade.

Don't run the front blade with it locked down, or while using downforce.

Timely info!! I just got the blade installed on mine Sat and never knew there was a lockout for the float (never used the Cadet over 30 min). Anyway, it would pick the front end up off the shop floor. Put it back to float and went and played with the blade for about 45 min., worked OK I suppose.

[finsruskw]

Put some weight on the blade to achieve "down force"
It will not then ride up over something so easily, but, it will more easily dig in and trip the blade spring option if it is not on the locked position.

[drglinski]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

I think you would find the instructions give you the info you seek. However, we are having an issue with the tech library information at this time, so you cannot download it. Perhaps someone can email it to you has already downloaded it.




That is absolutely incorrect. You cannot and should not use down force on a front blade. You will bend the piss out of the rod that lifts it. The front blade lift mechanism is not designed for down force. You should always run a front blade in the float position. If it "floats" over material, then you will have to find another way to break it up. Besides, a blade works just like a plow. If it is sharp and adjusted right it should try to dig in. There are times it won't, but we have to keep in mind it's a very small blade. It will sometimes "float" over what we are trying to scrape off. In that case, you need a bigger tractor with a bigger blade.

Don't run the front blade with it locked down, or while using downforce.

I float every implement I have. Mower, tiller, blade..........locking it breaks things.

[Cub Cadet 123]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

I think you would find the instructions give you the info you seek. However, we are having an issue with the tech library information at this time, so you cannot download it. Perhaps someone can email it to you has already downloaded it.




That is absolutely incorrect. You cannot and should not use down force on a front blade. You will bend the piss out of the rod that lifts it. The front blade lift mechanism is not designed for down force. You should always run a front blade in the float position. If it "floats" over material, then you will have to find another way to break it up. Besides, a blade works just like a plow. If it is sharp and adjusted right it should try to dig in. There are times it won't, but we have to keep in mind it's a very small blade. It will sometimes "float" over what we are trying to scrape off. In that case, you need a bigger tractor with a bigger blade.

Don't run the front blade with it locked down, or while using downforce.

I understand what you are saying and I have purchased blades and snow throwers with the lift bars bent. However, when I replaced a retention wall at my mom's years ago, I had to backfill the dirt behind the wall. I used my 73 with a front blade and in the float position, the blade went up over the dirt piles and my cub was driving up them. Yes, a rear blade would have been ideal for my work or a FEL, but I do not own a rear blade and did not own my FEL at the time. So, using downforce on my blade, my 73 got the job done without damage to anything, moving the dirt piles back into place and eventually, leveling the ground out to a gently slope. The dirt was loose enough for the blade to do the job. So, based on my experience, if a person knows what they are moving and uses common sense, there is no harm in using downforce to get the job done when it is needed and won't damage your tractor/implements.


Cub Cadet 123