Cub Cadet 105 Awakens After a 19-Year Nap

[68IH105]

Hello! As the saying goes, "Long time listener, first time caller".

I grew up with this 105 - my father purchased it in approximately 1995, and he (and later I) mowed several acres with it regularly up until about 2005/2006 when he switched to push mowing for the exercise. I had moved away, and this 105 had been in storage ever since... but now that I have some land, Dad was kind enough to pass it on for me and my son to continue the tradition.





Thankfully, this was running when parked, and Dad had prepped it for the storage, so even after two decades it didn't take too much to get it running again. The battery had leaked down the side a bit, but the fuel tank was clean/dry, the oil had been changed, etc.

Being a prior restoration, we're not entirely sure how original this one is/was. If any of the experts see anything that looks out-of-place, please call it out, I'd appreciate it. The offset hitch was a modification Dad made to pull a push mower deck behind the left side to cut a wider swath. (The electrical plug on the rear, and the black relay on the left side of the control column, then allowed this separate deck to be switched off with the main key switch.)

The serial number on the hydrostatic rear end gives this 105 a December 1968 production date. The deck is the 42" "421 U 1113", which I've learned is the second of the three versions, with the quick-attach brackets, but still having the gauge wheels instead of just using runners.

I have plenty of work ahead of me, but I'll try to keep this thread updated as I go. Always appreciate the history, insight, and knowledge shared here on the forum.

[68IH105]

As part of its prior restoration, unfortunately the data plate on the engine had been painted over.

Does anyone know if the data on this plate was stamped in (and would survive an application of paint remover)? Or is it printed/painted on, and removing the yellow paint would also remove the printing?



I presume that this is the 10-horse K241, but understand that if the pedigree is in question (engine tin swapped, etc), measuring the bore and stroke is the best way to ID an engine?

I found a tremendous amount of engine information at:
https://gardentractorpullingtips.com/engine.htm
... and based on this, it seems as though the stroke is the same for 12hp and larger engines, but different across 8hp/10hp/12hp engines, so I believe I could just pull the spark plug and measure the stroke only and still get a positive ID? (The frame isn't notched, so that means it can't be any larger than 12HP, correct?)

[68IH105]

So this 105 was running, but in need of a growing list of small repairs at the time it was parked. One of them was that the PTO button had fallen out and been lost during mowing, due to the PTO lever being bent and going past its stop. I purchased a threaded bronze version, as I'm planning on getting a few attachments that will necessitate belt changes, and this will help keep me from losing this one too.

For the threaded versions of the PTO button, does anyone know if the locknut is supposed to be tightened such that it is kept firmly in place, or is it supposed to be kept slightly loose, so that the button can rotate in the arm/bracket?

[68IH105]

Another issue I have to solve is the PTO belt alignment.

The belt is an IH 490489R2, which I believe is correct for the 42" deck? But instead of entering/exiting straight downward off of the PTO pulley, the belt angles distinctly rearward.

The mule drive is the style with one spring-loaded pulley, and the other pulley having a threaded rod and adjusting nut. I'm not sure if this is the correct mule drive, or if it should have had the earlier two-nut (no-spring) version, or the later style with the tool-free lift/pull lever for adjustment? The pulleys measure at 3" outer diameter.


The front face of the mule drive is bent (pushed rearward) a bit, but even if it wasn't, the belt length still wouldn't allow the proper alignment. It can't be adjusted out with the adjuster, as pulling that one side of the belt into vertical alignment just pulls the spring-loaded side further rearward. When adjusted so that the left and right sides are "balanced", they both face rearward, and both barely clear the upper edge of the pulley brackets where they pivot. You can see where it has rubbed in the past. There is some angular bend to the pulley brackets, with one of them noticeably tipped, but I don't know that that would have a significant impact on the front-rear alignment... it almost seems like it needs a couple more inches of belt length?

[ironman]

Originally Posted by 68IH105

As part of its prior restoration, unfortunately the data plate on the engine had been painted over.

Does anyone know if the data on this plate was stamped in (and would survive an application of paint remover)? Or is it printed/painted on, and removing the yellow paint would also remove the printing?

The engine serial number and spec number are stamped, the engine model and all other info is in paint, so no to stripper, unles you want to try something mild and do light coats.
The spec number should tell you what engine it is, they are found in the parts manual.
You can download parts manuals here....
https://www.kohler-engine-parts.opee...wnload-p-12023

[darkminion_17]

Your belt is too short. Should be IH-473462-R92 81" long

[finsruskw]

That left hanger is bent out of whack as well.

[68IH105]

Originally Posted by darkminion_17

Your belt is too short. Should be IH-473462-R92 81" long

Thanks for the info. I've been looking at the diagrams on shankslawn.com, and my mule drive doesn't seem to match any of them exactly, but the two that are close both call for the IH-490489-R2. Is there a different source that I should be using, one that shows the IH-473462-R92 belt?


From shankslawn:

The first style is the bolt-on unit (not quick-attach), so that's not it.

The second one I see is in my 105's serial number range, and the round cross bar above the mower deck matches (part #7), as well as the front structure (part #1). However it shows two screw-type idler adjustments which is not my setup. The belt indicated for this one is the IH-490489-R2, which is the belt that I have.
https://cc.shankslawn.com/oemparts/a...010-to-400-000

The third one has the spring loaded idler, but a different idler bracket, and a different center frame (part #7). The front structure (part #1) also looks different, as it is missing the holes that mine has. This one also lists the IH-490489-R2 belt.
https://cc.shankslawn.com/oemparts/a...001-to-529-999

[Grandpa53]

Something definitely is out of whack. Mismatched parts is my guess. If you have a farm supply or hardware store that sells belts that you regularly do business with they probably will let you get a 1" and a 2" longer belts and return the one that doesn't fit. As long as you don't run it the Ace hardware in my area will accept returns.

[Graflex45]

Originally Posted by 68IH105

As part of its prior restoration, unfortunately the data plate on the engine had been painted over.

Does anyone know if the data on this plate was stamped in (and would survive an application of paint remover)? Or is it printed/painted on, and removing the yellow paint would also remove the printing?



I presume that this is the 10-horse K241, but understand that if the pedigree is in question (engine tin swapped, etc), measuring the bore and stroke is the best way to ID an engine?

I found a tremendous amount of engine information at:
https://gardentractorpullingtips.com/engine.htm
... and based on this, it seems as though the stroke is the same for 12hp and larger engines, but different across 8hp/10hp/12hp engines, so I believe I could just pull the spark plug and measure the stroke only and still get a positive ID? (The frame isn't notched, so that means it can't be any larger than 12HP, correct?)

You might try wetting a paper towel with some harsh solvent like acetone or starting fluid (ether) and seeing if you can push it in contact with the pained plate for a minute or so and see if it softens the paint enough to scrape it off with your fingernails or a piece of stiff plastic made into a small scraping tool