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  #1  
Old 07-01-2010, 02:27 PM
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gcbailey gcbailey is offline
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Default 127 - speed control connection rod length

OK, I got another question....

What is the length of the speed control connection rod supposed to be?

I purchased one a while back and it's length is - approx 13" end to end counting ball joints.

The one I took off is approx 10 7/8" end to end.

I just want to make sure the one that was on the tractor is the right one, since it's had some stuff done previously, remember my big square plate welded on the speed control on the hydro....
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Gary
'49 Farmall Cub, '62 "Original, '70 73 w/402-D Haban sickle, '71 127 w/38" cast end deck, '73 149, '76 Sof76, '07 LT1045 w/bagger, '09 GT2544 w/bunch of mods.

5 Exmarks, Kubota B2920, blah, blah, blah...
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  #2  
Old 07-01-2010, 08:55 PM
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Default

Here's what I'm talking about.... Part #11
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Gary
'49 Farmall Cub, '62 "Original, '70 73 w/402-D Haban sickle, '71 127 w/38" cast end deck, '73 149, '76 Sof76, '07 LT1045 w/bagger, '09 GT2544 w/bunch of mods.

5 Exmarks, Kubota B2920, blah, blah, blah...
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  #3  
Old 07-01-2010, 09:13 PM
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I just checked a 127 parts tractor that I have and without taking the joints off the ends its appx 10".

Sounds like the one you picked up is from another tractor....13" is way too long for a 127.

Whats wrong with your original? If you need the correct length rod, pm me...you can have the one from my parted 127 for the cost of shipping.

Hope this helps,

Jeff (teet)
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Old 07-01-2010, 09:33 PM
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Before I took it out (tonight) it was suggested that the rod may have been bent causing part of my lever "slop" so I went on and got a used one when I was getting some other stuff. It's no big deal, it was only $5, I just mainly needed good joints on the ends, both of them are worn extremely bad. I may hit you up on some other parts for the 127 if you want to sell them.
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Gary
'49 Farmall Cub, '62 "Original, '70 73 w/402-D Haban sickle, '71 127 w/38" cast end deck, '73 149, '76 Sof76, '07 LT1045 w/bagger, '09 GT2544 w/bunch of mods.

5 Exmarks, Kubota B2920, blah, blah, blah...
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  #5  
Old 07-01-2010, 09:40 PM
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Ahhh...makes sense. I do have "most" of the tractor, although I have scavenged quite a few parts for my other 127...let me know what your looking for, and I'll see if I have it.

Good luck with yours...you'll be happy when you have it sorted out. My 127 is probably my favorite Cub, although cosmetically its lacking, but its reliable, and a real work horse.

Jeff (teet)
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122
1962 Original
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  #6  
Old 07-01-2010, 09:48 PM
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You can get new Heim joints from McMaster-Carr to replace those crappy rod ends.
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  #7  
Old 07-01-2010, 10:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt G. View Post
You can get new Heim joints from McMaster-Carr to replace those crappy rod ends.
Already did that after I got my answer tonight, ordered those along with the spiral pins...
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Gary
'49 Farmall Cub, '62 "Original, '70 73 w/402-D Haban sickle, '71 127 w/38" cast end deck, '73 149, '76 Sof76, '07 LT1045 w/bagger, '09 GT2544 w/bunch of mods.

5 Exmarks, Kubota B2920, blah, blah, blah...
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  #8  
Old 07-02-2010, 02:10 PM
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OK one more question (for now). How tight is the ball joint lock nut supposed to be where it attaches to the shaft friction adjust (#23 in the above pic)? the reason I ask when I removed it the nut had maybe 3 threads from falling off. Are the supposed to be tight or be pretty loose and let the lock nut hold it on.

And also the tightness on the opposite end where it connects to the cam.
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Gary
'49 Farmall Cub, '62 "Original, '70 73 w/402-D Haban sickle, '71 127 w/38" cast end deck, '73 149, '76 Sof76, '07 LT1045 w/bagger, '09 GT2544 w/bunch of mods.

5 Exmarks, Kubota B2920, blah, blah, blah...
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  #9  
Old 07-02-2010, 03:43 PM
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Ive seen some threaded on more than others...it depends on how well you have the cam bracket adjustment dialed in. Its also important to start threading both ends at the same time, if one end is started first, it could reduce the number of threads on the other end. I would think if you have it threaded on a few revolutions, snugging up the lock nut will hold it fine. If there seems to be too much lateral play between the joint and rod after threading it on, the joint probably should be replaced. Ive swapped mine over to heim joints.

Jeff (teet)
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71
127
102
122
1962 Original
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  #10  
Old 07-02-2010, 06:05 PM
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I don't think I made my question clear, or know exactly what to say...

I'm talking about how tightly put together should the ball joint or heim joint #12, #13 be connected to their corresponding pieces #23, #6.

The old ball joint stub end had the lock nut barely threaded connecting itself to #23. Should there be play between the two, or should the lock nut be fully tightened against the piece? Look at my sorry arrows....

Sorry for the horrible picture, I'm on my parents computer and paint is all the have....

linkage.gif
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Gary
'49 Farmall Cub, '62 "Original, '70 73 w/402-D Haban sickle, '71 127 w/38" cast end deck, '73 149, '76 Sof76, '07 LT1045 w/bagger, '09 GT2544 w/bunch of mods.

5 Exmarks, Kubota B2920, blah, blah, blah...
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