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#1
09-06-2017, 10:19 AM
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What is ok to use on my K-301 aluminum head and gasket to clean off the carbon?
Just wanted to get more opinions on this. I've read and heard where some people use a dull putty knife, wire and brass brushes, etc. The manual calls for only wood or plastic scrapers. My plastic putty knife really doesn't do much - gets dull right away.
I have a small wire and brass brush, if that would be ok to use. Or would some sort of solvent - carb cleaner, etc. - do the job? |
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#2
09-06-2017, 10:27 AM
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I would use brake cleaner and a wire brush if you don't have access to a bead blaster.
__________________
Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
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#4
09-06-2017, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
__________________
Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
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#5
09-06-2017, 01:02 PM
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#6
09-06-2017, 03:40 PM
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All cleaned. Have to get the 320 grit paper to do any planing. I ran a straight edge across the head and checked for light coming under the sides. It's really pretty good. There are a few areas where I see light showing under the straight edge, and the straight edge has just the slightest bit of rocking back and forth right near the one edge (when placing it across the widest point) so I suppose this indicates some warpage.
How do you know how much planing to do? In Tim's video, he's removing deposits from the head, and then stops around 20 minutes after they are all off. I already have the head clean though, so what means of checking is suggested to see if it is indeed planed down sufficiently? Just use a straight edge again and check for low spots? |
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#7
09-06-2017, 04:23 PM
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That's flat black paint you see in the video and that was done to make it easier to see on camera, in person it will be very obvious where it's been sanded and where I hasn't so go until it all been sanded.
__________________
Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
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#8
09-06-2017, 08:21 PM
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That (sanding) procedure is great! The head looks terrific. Before I sanded, I was able to get a .002 feeler gauge between the head and a metal straight edge at a few places. After sanding though, it (appears at least) to be all level. Can't get a gauge under it anywhere. I know you SHOULDN'T be able to slip something as big as .002 gauge under it, but I don't have anything smaller and it seemed a more accurate way to assess where any high or low spots were as opposed to holding it up to the light and trying to see how much light showed between the straight edge and the head. Still have to re-check the points with a test light and then the head goes back on tomorrow, will torque all the bolts to 25, and then I'll see how the engine sounds.
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#9
09-06-2017, 08:27 PM
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While you have the head off I strongly recommend you remove and clean the valves and adjust them, this will probably have to be done by your brother since it's a bit involved.
__________________
Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
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#10
09-06-2017, 09:05 PM
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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