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#1
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Picked up a 126 a couple of weeks ago and have been tinkering with it. Ran when I got it, but acted like it needed a carb cleaning. I'm no stranger to cleaning carbs, but given the price difference in a rebuild and an aftermarket carb at about 6 bucks, I just picked up a new aftermarket carb. Also replaced the coil since the original was leaking oil. New fuel line and added an in-line filter. Verified the points gap at .020. (Tried .018 as well.)
It starts and idles fine. Sounds really good. At full throttle, it doesn't sound good. (BLAHH, bluh, bluh, BLAHH) I've adjusted the high speed jet every way to Sunday and other than the fact that I can get it low enough to kill it, it doesn't make much difference. Just changes the volume. Can't get it to run smooth. Also, has no oomph at full throttle. Struggles to move the tractor and mowing grass is out of the question. Is there something simple I'm missing? I was planning to start using it this weekend and use it until fall when I could maybe do a semi-resto on it. Thanks. Jbo |
#2
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I didn't know you could get aftermarket carbs for $18....
![]() Pull the head. Plane it, clean up the valves and piston. New head gasket, warm it up one heat cycle and retorque it. Adjust the valves, and set the timing statically. Gapping the points isn't the proper way to time a Kohler. Oh, and remove the in-line fuel filter and put a sediment bowl back on. They trap water, and in most cases, flow better. . |
#3
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Didn't have a sediment bowl on it when I got it. - or a fuel filter. That's why I added one. Guess somebody along the line took out the sediment bowl.
I'll look up timing procedure again and see if I get it. I tinker a lot with small engines, but I don't see how the timing can be off if the key isn't sheared. Feel free to educate me. Are you thinking my problem is a leak at the head gasket? Maybe I was looking at a high dollar rebuild kit. My point was, I don't think it's the carb even though it sounds like a carb issue to me. Jbo |
#4
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I will add to Jons list of things. Take your new carb apart and clean it. They all come from China if you paid less than 50$ for it. Make sure it is free of manufacturing defects.
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Terry O,100,72,102,123,104,124,105 125,129,149,1200,982 (2)2182s w/60in Habans 3225 |
#5
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Your coil may be going bad, has it been cooked ?
If there is a bulge on the bottom of it, and you have to feel it, then somebody may have had the key left on.
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Up to 530 and counting... I give up updating my profile! |
#6
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Plan is to take apart and examine the new carb. Will likely also rebuild the old one.
Coil is brand new. Would like to know why I should disassemble the head and clean. Don't mind doing it, but why is that expected to fix the problem? Was halfway planning to rebuild the motor over the winter, but had hoped to use it for this season. Thanks for the ideas so far. Jbo |
#7
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Did you replace the condenser?
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Up to 530 and counting... I give up updating my profile! |
#8
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Was just looking at a video on setting the timing and thought I didn't replace the condenser. Will do that tomorrow. Not sure why I didn't.
![]() Why would it run perfectly at idle, though? Jbo |
#9
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![]() Quote:
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
#10
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As Darkminion said, replace the condenser,
A bad one will idle all day but not throttle up without spitting/sputtering/farting etc. Try it before doing anything else. I don't see that many go bad,but you do describe the condition some cause. ![]() |
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