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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
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Today I got a test light and tested my battery, good, tested the Solenoid, good, tested the volt regulator, bad, and the starter, bad. Now, the wires are old and ratty, do you think I would need new wires? A new volt reg? A new starter? Also, I've tried jumping it and it doesn't turn over.
Thanks, Edmonds |
#2
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First, Welcome to Only Cub Cadets. I do not have much experience with those models, but someone will be along shortly to help.
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1572, 1864 x2, 1810 x2, 1863 & GT1554(Dad's Ole Mowers), 1811,782D, 1872 x2, 782DT(Sold), 3235, 1860, 1772 with 3-point and Turbo. |
#3
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Welcome
Since you imply the wiring harness is ratty, I highly suggest a new wiring harness from forum member MLamar http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=34457 It's a very good price, well made and even for an electric idiot like myself, it's easy to hook up as everything is tagged as to where it plugs in. Jeff |
#4
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I'm not sure that it's the harness, it was turning over fine (as a friend and I were jumping it) and then for some reason it stopped doing anything.
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#5
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Welcome to our group! You have asked many questions...ok...but we need more info. I have a 129 that was junky and would not start. I began by checking the wire harness connections to see if they were good, broken or corroded (Download service manual for the wiring harness). I cleaned the connection at the ignition switch, cleaned battery connections, checked safety switches. Installed a known good battery and voila..engine cranked (Download Service Manual) Getting it to start was another matter involving engine issues. Your wiring harness, starter generator and regulator may be bad but those items need to be checked systematically...did I mention download the service manual?
Have Fun! ![]() http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/1x8-9%20&%...e%20Manual.pdf
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#6
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HI! and welcome. I have a 128, too! and it's one of my favorites.
I'm not sure how you determined that your voltage regulator and starter are "no good." Would need details on what you did there. But,if mine would not crank, here's the process I'd go through to diagnose the problem (assuming the starter did nothing when I turned the key) 1. Check the battery and make sure it's charged. 2. Check battery connections to be sure they are tight and clean. 3. Check the ground from the battery to the frame and the frame to the starter motor. 4. Try jumping with jumper cable directly from the battery to the starter motor, using the positive terminal from the battery to the terminal on the starter with the larger wire connected to it. If it turns with this, then you need to sort out the ignition circuit. Could be the brake/clutch safety switch or the PTO safety switch that are preventing starting. Starter relay or ignition switch are also possibilities. if the starter still wont turn, run a second jumper cable from the negative battery terminal to the starter frame and try again jumping with the positive cable. If no luck, remove it, and try again on the bench with a known good battery. If that works, you've got ground wire issues. if still no joy, look for a new starter or dissemble yours and look for problems.
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#7
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@Sawdustdad. I have tried jumping it several times, as I said, it was turning over fine (when I was jumping it) and all of a sudden, it stopped turning. I think I should also mention that the A terminal on the starter rotates. I tried a test light, I got the Solenoid and the battery to light up, but the volt regulator and the starter gave me nothing. I personally think it's mostly the wires that are bad.
But, I spent $200 to get this bad boy, and I really don't want to spend any more than $50 more (I know I'm cheap). |
#8
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You mentioned that the A terminal rotates. That is the reason the starter does not work. Remove the starter generator and take off the end cap. you should be able to see if the wires that connect to the A terminal are broken off. If so you will need to get the S/G rebuilt. This will probably blow your $50.00 budget. And as Delta said download the service manual and read through it.
Good luck. Tom |
#9
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If the wiring is all original it is at least 43 years old. You have no idea what this machine did or how it was stored during those 40 odd years. I own a 102 that I bought in 1975, used hard, stored indoors and the wiring had become hard and brittle. The connections had become corroded and demanded attention. I got a new harness from LLamar which was practically goof proof to install. All garden tractors are used in a very harsh environment with mowing, snow removal and ground engaging work. To expect $50.00 to fix 40 odd years of use it ain't going to happen. Seals, bearings, tires etc may all need attention.
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With my son, EricR Super 2084 with 54" mower, 451 blower. 2086 with 3 pt hitch, 54 inch deck, 551 blower, 54 in brinly blade. A 4 digit original w deck. A 70 with deck. 2 102s both with 42 in decks, one with creeper, 1 36 inch IH snow thrower CW36, 1 42 inch IH blade. 149 with mower. 2072 w 3 pt hitch, Johnny bucket, 60 in mower, 451 blower. Jacobson GT 10 with mower. DR Lawn vac tow behind,Home made lawn roller. Brinly cart, 2 off brand carts and 1 home made cart. |
#10
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@Farmall Fred, that's what I was afraid of, if I have to get a new starter I'm just gonna sell it.
@Paul everything is in excellent condition, except for the wiring and now I'm afraid, the starter. ![]() |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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