Splitting a QL 1650

[ndanger]

I haven't posted here in a while, although I have been occasionally checking on what's going on. It looks like everyone has been continuing to have fun.

Anyway, I need to replace the gasket between the rear end and the transmission on my 1650. I don't have a hoist nor do I have any help, so this will be a solo job.

First, I have a 1250 and a 1650. The 1250 has a release lever that one is supposed to pull up when moving the tractor manually. However, the 1650 does not have that lever. I have not been able to find out why. I assume it is OK to roll the 1650 manually. Can anyone explain what the lever does inside the transmission and why the 1650 doesn't have one?

Secondly, any tips on splitting the tractor would be appreciated. I've read the manual, and the only thing I haven't quite mentally figured out is how to support the rear section while I back it away from the front section (sitting on jack stands). I assume that once it is free it will be very heavy. The only idea I have had is to borrow a small floor jack and secure it to the rear section and roll everything away in one piece.

[ol'George]

You prolly have automatic relief valves so no lever to push the buttons down to roll it, just do it.
When you get it unbolted and linkage/lines/driveshaft etc. disconnected, just put a small floor jack under the nose of it and roll it back ( leave the tires on)
then if you stand it on it's rear cover so it is vertical, you don't even have to drain the differential to remove/replace the cork gasket.
it is not so heavy you can't pick the nose up easily by hand.
You will have to set some wood blocks under the rear cover for it to set on because it will not stand up by itself while operating on it.
don't forget to remove a linkage spring on the frame rail or it will want to come fwd when trying to roll it back.
not a hard job @ all.

[ndanger]

Thanks, ol'George. I pulled the fender this morning and I see that there are no manual relief valves on the transmission, so that explains that. I haven't pulled one of these apart since high school (when I worked on them at the local hardware store). Everything looks smaller than I remember (but it's been forty years).

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by ndanger

Thanks, ol'George. I pulled the fender this morning and I see that there are no manual relief valves on the transmission, so that explains that. I haven't pulled one of these apart since high school (when I worked on them at the local hardware store). Everything looks smaller than I remember (but it's been forty years).

If you run into a problem, just give somebody a hollar here.
Have a pie plate or something for under the vent on top of the diff when you set it on rear cover plate,as it will drip a few drops but nothing like a leak or gusher,just a weep.

[RLause]

A piece of tape over the vent keeps the oil in.

[flatpickerray]

Originally Posted by ol'George

You prolly have automatic relief valves so no lever to push the buttons down to roll it, just do it.
When you get it unbolted and linkage/lines/driveshaft etc. disconnected, just put a small floor jack under the nose of it and roll it back ( leave the tires on)
then if you stand it on it's rear cover so it is vertical, you don't even have to drain the differential to remove/replace the cork gasket.
it is not so heavy you can't pick the nose up easily by hand.
You will have to set some wood blocks under the rear cover for it to set on because it will not stand up by itself while operating on it.
don't forget to remove a linkage spring on the frame rail or it will want to come fwd when trying to roll it back.
not a hard job @ all.

That's how I did my 782, it worked out great.

[zippy1]

Don't forget to place two small blocks of wood between the front axle and frame, on both sides. This will keep your tractor level when you raise the frame to remove the rear...
I know it says something about it in the manual someplace.

[Randy Littrell]

Once you have a tractor, you are going to need a floor jack. Might as well get on now. Even the small cheap jacks will work fine for GT duty.






Randy

[ndanger]

Thanks for the tips on the vent.

The manual shows jack stands holding the front section up. I was planning to do that if mine fit. Otherwise I'll jack it up and drop it back on stacks of 4x4s.

My neighbor has an under-used small floor jack, so I'll probably borrow that. I'm kinda out of shop space and I'm not working right now, so I'll probably wait to buy my own.

The next step is to get the decades of crud off of the drive train. It's a mess. I have to go out and get some degreaser and get the power washer out. Are there any orifices on the hydro that I need to cover up? I'd cover the differential vent, but I'm going to change the differential fluid anyway.

I also plan to pull the rear differential cover to see in what shape things are in there. Hopefully I won't need to repair anything, but the brakes were starting to fade a bit when I had the tractor in service. I may need to replace them. I remember a thread awhile back where Matt? posted a reply about how to go about doing that.

Also, the hydro fan has no vanes anymore. I need to figure out a way of replacing that using some sort of split-coupling arrangement (I saw a YouTube video where a guy did that) so I don't have to pull the engine up and forward to free the driveshaft end.

It's amazing when one starts pulling covers off and looks at the stuff that was covered up.

I really need to get this thing in service so I can finish hauling slash and finish mitigating my property for wildland fires.

Thanks.

[ndanger]

zippy1, I mis-read your comment and, after re-reading it, now understand what you are saying. That tip is something I wouldn't have thought of. Thanks.