782D hydro issue

[switchbackben]

So today my 782D decided to stop moving. Attached should be a picture of my Hydro Pump input shaft. The spirol pin was extended out from the hole on the coupler and was partially sheared. As you can see the hole intended for the spirol pin is pretty chewed up and elongated and I don't believe it is usable let alone would like I to reassemble with it left in this condition.

Does anyone have any suggestions on the best course of action? I don't have much in the way of metal working equipment, i.e. welder, lathe, etc. So if it can be remedied with "bolt on" products that's what I would prefer.

I see a 782(no D) for sale on craigslist near me with no engine for $700. I'm not sure if that hydro is compatible with mine or would it behoove me to upgrade my drive shaft and input shaft per several other posts that I've seen. If that's the case, where can I find the required parts for said upgrade.

Thanks in advance fellas,
Ben

[mjsoldcub]

need access to a welder or local shop...wet rag around the charge pump, weld that sucker up and redrill....or pull it all apart and go the hard way....if they tig it nice shouldnt need to be chucked in a lathe....maybe a little disk grinder at most....dont spend 700 on that little wallered out hole though...

[J-Mech]

A used pump will run you about $100 on ebay, or put up a wanted ad here. Too much trouble for a DIY guy to fix it. I wouldn't attempt to weld it up. Not without removing the charge pump first anyway. Just buy a used hydro and swap it out. You just need one that has hydraulic lift ports. You cannot use one off of a SGT either. Still leaves hoards of other tractor models you can get a used one from. Make sure you get a Sundstrand unit. Some of the later CC models used a Hydrogear pump.

[ol'George]

And $700 is 2-1/2 times what a heartless 782 is worth.
Most any ported hydro will work as John said.

[switchbackben]

Jonathan: Got it. Non-super, ported, Sunstrand hydro pump. There's a bunch of them on eBay but most with the cyclops shaft. I'm not sure I'd like to open that can of worms with figuring out a driveshaft then. Maybe down the road.

The coupler should fit snugly around the input shaft, correct? Or is it designed to pivot? Mine has quite a bit of play, probably a 1/16 all the way around. The way my mind is interpreting this setup is the all the pivoting is done by the ball bushing with the help of the rubber discs as support.

George: I didn't plan on paying 700 for the parts tractor. Just was saying there's one out there and available. But its good to know I should shoot for about 300ish if I decide to go that route. Thanks!

[J-Mech]

No engine, I wouldn't give more than $100. Maybe $150.

[mjsoldcub]

Hey Jon, so that 1641 or whatever it is parts machine I have, seems to look totally fifferent than the Sundstrand units I'm used too...so it's a hydro gear I assume?? It has the aluminum rear and hydro lift,....anyways are those good units??? I have NO experience with one...it is what I'm puting in that 72d though....unless you say they're garbage????

[darkminion_17]

Good unit, too weak for power steering upgrade, you will have to use the brake setup from the 1641.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by mjsoldcub

Hey Jon, so that 1641 or whatever it is parts machine I have, seems to look totally fifferent than the Sundstrand units I'm used too...so it's a hydro gear I assume?? It has the aluminum rear and hydro lift,....anyways are those good units??? I have NO experience with one...it is what I'm puting in that 72d though....unless you say they're garbage????

Don't use it. You won't be happy with it. Yes, HG unit. Would have to make all new hydraulic lines. Not as good of a hydro. Just get a Sundstrand unit.

[CubDieselFan]

This member, DD, used a 1864 pump and upgraded the drive shaft to a cv style. You need a pump anyway.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=48229