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Hi everyone,
I'm a newcomer,but as someone said I've been lurking around. My wife and I were at a friends place about 100 miles away. I hung out while the wife went to a bridal shower. Saw this old cub cadet behind the garage and asked what his plans were for the tractor. "why, you want it?" how much you want for it? "i should pay you to get it out of here". I didn' know anything about old cubs. Then I started reading this forum. Couldn't get back there with a trailer fast enough. Result: came home with a 1974 149. It never had a mower, only a snowblower. Must be low hours. It took weeks of Kroil to free up cables,levers, etc. Pulled engine to get acorns and stuff out of flywheel. to keep this from becoming a book, I'm planning a total strip down and repainting. These are awesome little machines. I'm hooked. Has anyone here used Zero Rust? From the literature it looks great. Another question concerns painting the engine head and cylinder. Will a high temp paint last? More questions to follow, I'm sure. Thanks in advance for your input. p.s. This tractor belonged to my buddie's dad. I had many a beer with this great old guy. Makes this huge project extra special. I figure $300-500 and I'll have a tractor that should last forever indoors. |
#2
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Welcome to the forum!
Do not paint the head; it will not dissipate heat as well if it is painted. |
#3
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__________________
Allen Proud owner of my Original and 126! My Grandpa's Cart Craftsman Lawn Sweeper Craftsman Plug Aerator |
#4
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Denny Original Member # 389 Saw It Wanted It Had A Fit Got It ![]() ![]() ![]() MY Cubs Original x 2 , 70 x 7 , 71 x 2 , 72 x 4 , 73 , 76 , 100 x 3 , 104 , 106 , 109 , 128 , 129, 147 x 2 , 804 , 2 Wheel Horses and Lorenzo's 2 - 804's |
#5
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#6
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Does that go for the fins on the cylinder too? I thought I should at least put some kind of rust converter. Don't they get painted originally? Thanks tim |
#7
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The cylinder would have been painted, but not the head. I'd also recommend leaving the oil pan bare if it is an aluminum one. That'll keep your oil temp a bit lower.
I guess I'd clean and paint the cylinder. The paint is going to burn off and it'll eventually rust again. Bare iron would be best for conducting heat, but it will rust. I doubt the rust is any better at heat transfer than paint, so you might as well keep it from rusting away. |
#8
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I've just come across a spray paint that is a "rust converter" it claims. Spray on and it converts existing rust to rust oxide. Not sure if it can be used in high heat areas - got it for a rusty shovel...
Have also heard of "naval jelly" wich converts rust to oxide. Not sure how you'd get it on/off - but someone told me that once it converts the rust to "rust oxide" that the part wouldn't rust again. Any thoughts? -Calvin |
#9
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"Rust Oxide" sounds fishy. Rust is Iron Oxide. The part will rust again; it's not going to change the properties of the steel.
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#10
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Zero Rust is my favorite rust proofing paint. Good stuff and easy to use.
__________________
1968 124 |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
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