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#1
12-06-2016, 07:10 PM
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Cub 86 wiring/charging help
My cub 86 had some electrical issues that resulted in me replacing the key switch and then I wasn't getting power to the key switch. The battery terminal of the key switch was coming from one side of the ammeter, there was power to the other side of the ammeter (with two wires) so I disconnected the ammeter and tied all three wires going to the ammeter together. This allowed power to the key switch, but now when the tractor is running my multimeter shows the battery has 6-7 volts, and 12 volts with the key off. I'm at a loss, any ideas?
Thanks. 
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#2
12-06-2016, 07:21 PM
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Im assuming with that voltage you have to jump it off to start? Your battery is not charging. Sounds like you need to replace the ammeter. Verify wiring connections are correct. Then look at second link. Battery volts while charging should be around mid 13's to low 14s volts. Get a volt meter and test light, they're really good tools to have
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=22 http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=18
__________________
(2) Original, 100, 102, 124, 73, 800, #1 and #2 cart, brinly plows, disk, IH184, IH244, 1948 F Cub
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#3
12-06-2016, 08:28 PM
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How do I bypass the ammeter? It was charging last week and then all of the sudden, no juice to the key switch. Replaced the key switch, still nothing. So I tied all three wires going to the amp gauge together and now it starts, but discharges while running. My volt meter shows 12 volts at the battery when the tractor and key are off. The volt meter shows 6-7 volts when running at full throttle (volt meter bounces around a lot). I'm guessing that one of the three wires I have tied together should be left off?
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#4
12-06-2016, 08:33 PM
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Looking at the diagram it looks like I need to disconnect the red wire from the solenoid to the ammeter (which was nave tied into the battery terminal of the key switch. That is an excellent diagram. Thanks!
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#5
12-06-2016, 08:39 PM
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You said you replaced the key switch, did you buy the proper switch for your machine or did you pick up one from a place like Tractor Supply? Just because it said Cub Cadet on the bag does not mean it's the proper switch. Cub has a multitude of switches that are machine specific.
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL
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#7
12-07-2016, 09:34 PM
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Voltage is the potential as read across the battery, Amperage is the flow of current (electrons) through a wire or and in this case your ammeter. Yes it should be able to pass current through it. When the current is flowing that's what moves the needle. If your Ohm meter shows the ammeter as an open, then it has failed. It should read continuity.
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149, 2072, Original, 1772, 1782, #1 cart, Parker 48" sweeper,
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#9
12-12-2016, 11:26 PM
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Quote:
For what it's worth, my 147 had a bad ammeter - the glass was cracked and it had been sitting in a lawn tractor grave yard so it was corroded inside - it did something similar to what you are describing.
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147 w/Electric Lift - the tractor that says "Ni!" 147 w/no lift at all - the tractor called "WallE" QA48 deck, 1a tiller with one extension, QA36B snow thrower, QA42 blade and various other bucketraters, grassenators and dirtavators.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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