K301 timing

brentwd · #1 03-27-2011, 08:40 PM

I have been trying to get the timing set as matt's post states. If I set the points a .020, and open the points w/a multimeter as soon as it fluctuates, the "S" on the flywheel is about a half a revolution off. I took the flywheel off and painted the T and S. I have tried .015 to .025 and always comes up close to the same. I mowed with this tractor before and it ran good. I was working on the tractor and noticed the muffler was glowing red at WOT. The sight window is on the right side of the motor on my 125.

_DX3_ · #2 03-27-2011, 08:48 PM

I put the S dead center in the window, then go to the other side and open the points ever so slightly until the meter moves. I stop at that point. Rotate the engine until the meter just breaks and check the window. If the S is centered you are done. If it is still off a bit, I center it up in the window and go back and readjust the points. Don't worry about a feeler guage. Use the meter to determine the gap. Also you may want to pick up a new points push rod. Yours may be worn down some.

brentwd · #3 03-28-2011, 04:52 AM

DX3,
How do you set the points without a feeler gauge?

_DX3_ · #4 03-28-2011, 08:27 AM

Matt's procedure tells you. Use the meter to determine the gap. Have the S mark centered in the sight window. Initially have the points loose enough to adjust. Make sure they are closed or touching initially. The meter will read zero. With the meter electrodes touching the points as Matt shows, start adjusting the points open very very slowly. Just as soon as the meter needle moves, this lets you know the points have broken open. This is the spot you want to be at with the S centered in the window. You should visually barely be able to see the points parted. This will have your gap set to exactly where it needs to be. The factory setting of .020 is just to get the points in a general area to where the motor will fire without proper fine tuning. Matt's procedure is a much better way and gets the points as close to perfect as you can get without using a timing light. I hope this helps some. Keep us posted.

darkminion_17 · #5 03-28-2011, 09:05 AM

here are instructions from the green manual...

Methos · #6 03-28-2011, 09:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by _DX3_

Matt's procedure tells you. Use the meter to determine the gap. Have the S mark centered in the sight window. Initially have the points loose enough to adjust. Make sure they are closed or touching initially. The meter will read zero. With the meter electrodes touching the points as Matt shows, start adjusting the points open very very slowly. Just as soon as the meter needle moves, this lets you know the points have broken open. This is the spot you want to be at with the S centered in the window. You should visually barely be able to see the points parted. This will have your gap set to exactly where it needs to be. The factory setting of .020 is just to get the points in a general area to where the motor will fire without proper fine tuning. Matt's procedure is a much better way and gets the points as close to perfect as you can get without using a timing light. I hope this helps some. Keep us posted.

Well said Dwayne!

Southtowns27 · #7 03-28-2011, 10:43 AM

Maybe I'm blind, but I can't find the sight window on my 149... Someone know where it is?

_DX3_ · #8 03-28-2011, 11:31 AM

It is probably on the right side of the flywheel shroud, right behind the starter/generator. You will probably have to move the S/G to see in there.

brentwd · #9 03-28-2011, 08:55 PM

I have set the "S" to the sight hole and adjusted the points just as it moves the meter, I turn the motor over and the "S" does not end up in the sight hole. Would this be caused by the breaker rod and/or the points being bad? Even if I set the points a little wider it only moves it an inch or so. I will get the parts this week and try again. I appreciate the reply DX3

_DX3_ · #10 03-28-2011, 09:05 PM

The best way will probably be to have another person there with you as you are adjusting the points. Have them rotate the flywheel back and forth and you watch when the points open. Immediately as soon as the needle flickers let the other person tell you if the S is Centered, low, or hi. Work your points open or closed from that point to determine which way to go with them and keep doing that till they break soon as the S is centered. It just takes a few times and patience. I lucked out, that the engine I did was a quietline engine and the sight hole is on the same side as the points, so I was able to sit and adjust till I got it right. There is a good possibility the push rod could be wore down. A new one is not that much at NAPA. Make sure to get a new condenser if you get new points too.