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#1
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Help! I have been trying for two days to get this wheel off the column. I lubed, heated, beat, and pulled. This thing will not move.
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#2
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Try dynamite! I have tried for a long time on my 73, even with a puller and all I managed to do was split the column down the center. So my plan is to sawzall it off and beat it to attrition. I am not much help, but I share your frustration.
Some guys are able to spray them with PB Blaster frequently or Kroil and drive them around for about a month and then they pull off or work themselves off. Some guys will tell you to use a puller for it and use your knees to assist with removal. Some people will tell you to heat it up and then throw water on it and the steering wheel will pop off itself because of the drastic change in temperature. I'm sure each one of these tips is great advice and has worked for others in the past, but for me aside from getting a big hammer and going after it, or an even BIGGER HAMMER and going after it, I am not one to advise.....sorry. Cub Cadet 123
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Still don't know what I'm doing in OHIO?.....If you find me, then please point me back toward INDIANA. ![]() |
#3
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Thanks for the input. I think I'm going to try a different puller the three jaw one keeps slipping off. I found something that might work on harboth freight.
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#4
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5/8-18 nut. thread it on about half way. put your knees under steering wheel and push up while hitting nut with hammer. Has always worked for me.
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#5
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Thread a full size nut on the shaft, put a flat washer on a 3/8" bolt, then stick the 3/8" bolt down the middle of the shaft, turn the nut "off" just till it makes good contact with the washer.
Remove the lever on the side of the gear box and remove the "plug" from the bottom of the gear box, put your knees under the wheel and hit the 3/8" bolt head (hard) with a hammer. If you don't take the lever and the plug out of the gear box you risk breaking the aluminum gear box. Not following my own instructions, I just broke one a few days ago Be sure to push up hard on the wheel with your knees. After you damage the threads, take the shaft out, clean it up well and send it to me, I'll put the threads back on for you, I can put splines back on too but it's harder and costs more than twice as much.
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#6
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http://www.harborfreight.com/bearing...set-93980.html
this has worked everytime for me so far, and no damage to the wheel. |
#7
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made this. works good. won't mar steering wheel.
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#8
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This has worked for me as well.
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1572, 1864 x2, 1810 x2, 1863 & GT1554(Dad's Ole Mowers), 1811,782D, 1872 x2, 782DT(Sold), 3235, 1860, 1772 with 3-point and Turbo. |
#9
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I ended up using a pitman arm puller. Worked good, but surprisingly the column is a 3 turn from a ccc machine, so much for the steering upgrade kit.
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#10
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And unfortunately after all the effort and heat the plastic bearing keeps walking out of the column. So it's time to either put the wheel bearing in it or find another spacer. The never ending battle continues!
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
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