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#1
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One of my rear tires sprung a leak on me. The tire really should be replaced but I really can't afford $60-100 dollars for one tire right now (especially since the other one is probably not far behind). No, really, I don't have the money so I need to find an alternative, even if temporary. In a few months I might be able to get new tires, but the grass is growing now...
The tire is old and starting to dry rot, and it appears to be split between the treads. Can I remove the tire from the rim myself without any special tools? I've never tried. I'm thinking if I can get some sort of patch in it (even if it isn't completely airtight) I can get by with a tube for at least a few months. They are 23x8.5x12's
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Cub Cadet 2166 |
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#2
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Tube it is about your only choice.... |
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#3
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you can get the tire off with a couple big screw drivers or pry bars but getting it back on without putting a hole in the tube might be a bit of a challenge if your inexperienced, heres a link to a youtube video that will give you the general idea.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vy-Qdlc3KWs
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
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#4
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That's probably a pretty common tire size. Have you checked any local mower repair shops to see if someone has a junker they would sell rims and tires off of? I don't know if any other brands would bolt right up or not. Know anyone tractor pulling in your area? Most of those guys run a lug type tire and may very well have an old set of turf tires you can get real cheap.
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2072 w/60" Haban 982 with 3 pt and 60" Haban 1811 with ags and 50C 124 w/hydraulic lift 782 w/mounted sprayer 2284 w/54" mowing deck |
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#5
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If it leaking through cracks on the sidewall or from the bead.... SLIME... not sure where you would get it in the states but its sold at most auto supply stores around here. You just remove the valve stem and attach the hose from the bottle then squeeze in the liquid, put the valve stem back in, add air, and drive around for 20 minutes. Its about $8 for a small bottle enough for one tire, its not a permanent fix but it will USUALLY get you by for a little while.
This assuming you have already checked for punctures from nails or whatever? Those can be easily and cheaply plugged from the outside.
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Lance / Alberta Can IH 127 w/deck, snowblade IH 154 Loboy(x2) w/creeper 3pt and 3160 deck CCC 12.5 w/deck Plus 35 or so non IH tractors |
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#6
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I used to remove auto tires from the rims by setting the tire on the ground, placing a 2 x 6 or 2 x 8 (about 6' long) onto the tire so the edge is close to the rim, and drive my car up the board. I'd usually need to press the tire down in at least two places before it was completely off of the rim. Then turn it over, do the same on the other side, and then lube it up and spoon it off. However, if you're just installing a tube, you may be able to do this without pressing both sides of the tire off of the rim; press the outside (the side with the valve stem) off and work from there. I'd try to vacuum or blow out the inside of the tire before installing a tube. Dust the tube and the inside of the tire with some cornstarch or talc before installing; these will help the tube side into place more easily.
I agree that if you haven't done this before, getting the tire back on without pinching the tube can be tricky. Everyone who's anyone has pinched a tube. Try to always know where the tube is, and where the end of the tire spoon is, and as long as it's not the same place, you'll be okay. Dishwashing soap (if you don't have the real-deal tire lube) applied to the tire bead and the rim is essential whenever mounting and removing a tire. A trick I've learned to seat the bead of tubeless tires onto the rim is to use a ratcheting strap clamp around the middle of the tire tread. Tighten it up and the bead moves outward; works every time. |
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#7
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These rims are not "safety Beads" so they break down much more easily.
Most times I can put both heals on them and a tire bar between my heals and one hit with the #8 sledge and it is broken down, sometimes just my heals are all that is needed. You can cut a liner patch from a old inner tube or another worn thin tire, but stay away from radials as they have wire in them. I still have a liner or 2 around here from the 2nd world war days, that they put in tires because you could not buy tires during the war. It is not cost effective for you, but M.e. Miller has or did have, large liners /patches/ boots for tires. I did and still do all my tire work and used to run into some old stuff from those days while restoring the old farm tractors/equipment. You just never know what you will find in a 50-70 year old tire/rim.
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#8
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If the inside of the wheel is all rusty and looks like it will just pop the tube you can wrap the center of the wheel in duck tape, this will keep the rough wheel from popping the tube.
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
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#9
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Quote:
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Travis 1993 Cub Cadet 2064 1988 Cub Cadet 2072 1980 IH Cub Cadet 782 w/CH20 1966 IH Cub Cadet 102 w/K301 1961 IH Cub Cadet O 1967 IH Cub Cadet 102 & 122 JD 2155 w/ 175 loader |
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#10
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I can certainly appreciate you strapped $$$$ situation, but by the time you buy enough slime or an inner tube you are well on your way to spending money on something that may not work out as you wanted anyway. (not to mention killing yourself trying to install a tube).
My suggestion would be to check out your local Craigslist for something used that you could afford, maybe already on rims. You could also post a WTB (want to buy) ad. This forum also has the Trading Post section with For Sale and WTB posts. There might even be someone who would give away an old set that would get you by. Now if you're REALLY hard up, I have a friend, (not hard up, he was just cheap) who filled a tire with wadded up rags. He worked on it all day and we laughed like hell at him but it worked for a good while. |
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