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#1
04-22-2010, 11:50 PM
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HEADACHE! #2 Tiller on my 129
I drove 15 hours to northern Michigan to get the tiller only to find out I need a different mule drive, That led to a 6 hour drive to NY the next morning. I received some very good advice to make sure that the mule drive had the good steel pulleys, Well it did not so off to the local dealer who had only one in stock so I changed out the one, left one of the stamped tin jobs on there (since it was brand new looking still had the price tags on it) and the first rock I caught the pulley exploded! thank God I did not destroy the $80 belt, When I saw the pieces of pulley fly out I got sick.
Well anyway I got everything working pretty good now except The whole tiller is sitting cockeyed. It is closer to one rear tire than the other, Not real bad but enough to make the large pulley twisted to where it is wearing the side of the belt. Nothing in the linkage looks bent. Is there a way to adjust this? Is there a spot I should be checking for wear? Or do you just hook a chain to one side an give'r hell? 
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#2
04-23-2010, 06:58 AM
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Some pictures surely would be nice so that we can see what your are seeing.
 
__________________
[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1:
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#3
04-23-2010, 08:26 AM
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Just to help,
On the idler pulleys, in a pinch, Most times you can get by with the cheap welded pulley on the slack side, in other words, the side of the belt that is leaving the motor as the real power application is put on the pull side from the tiller or deck. but it is best to have the solid pulleys
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#5
04-23-2010, 10:39 PM
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I did not have a chance to get any pictures today. I will get them for shure tomorrow tough. Can sombody give me a line on where to get the solid steel Sheeves or at least a part number. The ones I got from the dealer are a lot better than the ones I had but they are not solid they are welded 360* though. The ones that flew apart were only spot welded.
The girl at the local cub dealer ashured me that they were better than the plastic ones. I hope so!
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#6
04-25-2010, 03:30 PM
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The reason the tiller is cocked, is most likely the large 1/2" bolt that holds the tiller to the arm (it goes through under the cover) is worn.....or loose, or the actual tiller is worn.
Unbolt it, then try to slide it out.....you most likely will have to hammer it out. I would take the shaft with the tines on it, off both sides first. There's a sleeve on it (atleast there is one on mine now), mine was wiped out...had to replace....fixed the problem.
__________________
Fly Fishing is not a sport...It's a way of life.
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#7
04-29-2010, 11:34 PM
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Ok here are some pics as you can see the belt angles off to the right. if I grab the right end of the tiller and pull straight back it starts to straghten up almost as if someone has backed into somthing with it?
pictures wont seem to load. I just noticed that somone has responded with some Ideas to check on I will do that tomorrow Thanks!
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