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#1
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Can anyone give me some advice on the oil bath air cleaners? I know nothing about them. The one I have looked okay, but after some cleaning I found pin holes all over the cup. I was lucky enough to find a NOS cup online and bought it, though. The inside of the new one is different from the old one though, although they look the same on the outside. This NOS cup is hollow inside, the old one has a "shelf" on the inside. Are the empty cups used the same way?
Is there a way to remove the metal fiber material out of it so I can sand blast and paint the whole thing and clean the element then reinstall it? Thanks guys.
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1961 Original 1991 John Deere 332 DIESEL 1973 John Deere 140 H3 1974 Case 646 |
#2
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How about some internal pictures of the cup.
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1: |
#3
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I'll need to learn how to post pictures here first. The cup is just empty. Just a shell. The old one has sort of a shelf in it, with holes around the edges
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1961 Original 1991 John Deere 332 DIESEL 1973 John Deere 140 H3 1974 Case 646 |
#4
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The "shelf" sounds like a baffle to help keep the oil in the cup, so it stays off the filter material during operation would be my guess.
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#5
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Yeah i think so. Its just odd that the new cup doesnt have it. Anyone seen this? And can the filter material be removed?
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1961 Original 1991 John Deere 332 DIESEL 1973 John Deere 140 H3 1974 Case 646 |
#6
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I found this in the Original's Owners Manual. I am thinking this "baffle", along with what George said, indicates the oil "fill" line.
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1: |
#7
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If your old cup isn't dented or rusted you should be able to remove the baffle. It comes up over the top of the cup where you should be able to separate it and slide it out, this also allows you to properly clean the dirt out of the bottom when you change the oil.
Here's a pic from another members thread, you can see the cup top right and the removed baffle below it. Hope this helps. ![]()
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149 with kwik-way loader,1772,two 1782 super smokers, 982 SGT w 54" haban blade,60" haban deck, 50in deck cat 0 3 point, brinly cat 0: blade, plow(3), disc.123,hydro lift. 61"O" Brinly single row planter,brinly cultivator,#2 trailer,brinly 10 inch plow,3 42 inch blades,Model #1 Tiller with extenstions,haban sickle mo. 106w/ags and hydro lift. ![]() |
#8
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We have a MD that we had to take the bowl off in really cold weather to get it to start. went to 10w oil in the winter for a while. I also vote for fill mark. |
#9
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Okay, so it's filled to just under the level of the baffle?
Anyone know about removing the mesh? Thanks for the help guys
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1961 Original 1991 John Deere 332 DIESEL 1973 John Deere 140 H3 1974 Case 646 |
#10
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Nope, it has a raised line about an 1 1/2" long stamped into the cup and baffle, that is the oil level.
The mesh comes out the top, remove the three screws that hold the housing to the aluminum elbow, remove the elbow and you can slide the mesh out the top.
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149 with kwik-way loader,1772,two 1782 super smokers, 982 SGT w 54" haban blade,60" haban deck, 50in deck cat 0 3 point, brinly cat 0: blade, plow(3), disc.123,hydro lift. 61"O" Brinly single row planter,brinly cultivator,#2 trailer,brinly 10 inch plow,3 42 inch blades,Model #1 Tiller with extenstions,haban sickle mo. 106w/ags and hydro lift. ![]() |
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