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  #1  
Old 04-18-2010, 10:39 AM
the grump the grump is offline
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Location: Missouri
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Angry "kinks" in the 149 (help)



I'm getting an "ugly" feeling in the pit of my stomach!!

#1) "Oh, it's a rebuilt (through and through) motor!!"

less than five hours worth of "run-time" and the motor smokes when started up.

#2) "the hydrostat has been gone through by an "expert" and it is in perfect condition!"

I'm getting what I've read on here as "hydrostatic-drift".

#3) the motor is "tight!"

the sucker leaks oil like an old truck! I didn't notice it till I pulled it into the shop on my concrete floor.

#4) "the tiller is in good condition!"

there's 3" to 4" of up and down play in the center bearing on the shaft that holds the tines.

I don't quite know what to do, fellas. My first reaction is to call the PO and confront him with the problems that have developed from what was "supposedly" a "restored" tractor. I don't know what type of response I would get. in my estimation, the response would only be as "good" as the man that sold it. I hate to be "mislead" (a kind word) but the "kinks" are there, where they shouldn't be. If the job had been done right in the first place. (that is "why" I paid the money I did, to have the job "right" before loading it up!)

Sorry for the rant. Any suggestions?? I was sold a bill of goods? At my age, I don't like being made to look like a fool.

The Grump.
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  #2  
Old 04-18-2010, 12:28 PM
Don T Don T is offline
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I would like to see a better picture of the right side of the engine, It looks to me like it has an engine out of a quiet line with a starter, I just can`t see in the picture you posted. When I buy tractors I don`t listen much to what the po says and will go over them my self . new fluids in the rear end and filter and plugs points ,carb kit and just set everything up to where it works great.I would rather start with a roller and build a cub that buy one that I was told was rebuilt.The smoke at start up could be just the carb a little rich and not getting the choke off fast enuf.my 149 cold when I start it I choke and put the throttle up some and soon as it rolls over push the choke in. I might get a little black some but that's normal I think. Just where is the oil coming from (breather) or crank seals? Let us know what you find. Later Don T
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  #3  
Old 04-18-2010, 12:34 PM
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Amigatec Amigatec is offline
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I think you're right I see a starter hanging on the side of the motor.
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  #4  
Old 04-18-2010, 01:54 PM
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Matt G. Matt G. is offline
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When you buy something, it's YOUR responsibility to operate it and make sure it is in the condition you are expecting. Did you start/run/drive it at all? I have bought/sold an awful lot of these things, and I've gotten to the point where I just assume there's a number of things that are going to need fixing, regardless of what the PO says. I have not bought one tractor that didn't need something fixed, regardless of how well it looked/ran when I bought it. When I resell them, I tell the prospective buyer everything I know about it, good and bad, and start it up for them and let 'em drive it around and mow with it before they buy it. Often, I've had people buy something without even starting it, which just baffles me.

I don't want to sound like I'm on the PO's side here because I feel it's totally wrong to misrepresent items and mislead people, but you could have determined each and every one of those things by testing the tractor out before you bought it.

I have only bought one CC sight-unseen; I purchased my 782D on ebay a few years ago. It was supposed to be in great shape and ready to work. It ran good, but I chased electrical gremlins for a month, and the deck was totally shot. It took me a month to strip the deck, clean the bearings, fix the bearing cups, straighten the deck, and weld up a dozen holes, and repaint. The blades were on upside down and about as sharp as a wooden spoon.
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  #5  
Old 04-18-2010, 02:06 PM
the grump the grump is offline
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i took off the tank brackets and moved the gas tank, setting it on top of the motor. i found two tags with these numbers on the curved back of the motor.

MOD# K341AQS (quiet series??)
SPEC# 71169a
Serial# 7198889

again, i can use any help offered. i'm an excellent "cabinet and furniture" maker. a "good" mechanic?.?.?... i struggle a bit and have to rely upon the integrity of the person offering the machine. BUT!!!! I'm begining to learn!!

the grump.

matt: yes to all of the above!! i drove it, fooled with it, talked about it for well over an hour. again--i must remit, i am "no mechanic" and i'm not under the illusion of being one. i was told by the PO that he had gone completely through the machine and it was "built for himself" as he would want it built. that's what sticks in my craw!!! being "told" one thing and it ending up being something entirely different. i PAID for a rebuilt machine, that is what i expected. that is NOT (in my opinion) what was sold.

since i've joined this site, i have became "enlightened"!! not everyone has the ability to discern problems as easily as others. i struggle, pure and simple. now, i can appreciate the fact that the cub is 38 years old, no problem. what i cannot appreciate, is deception.
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  #6  
Old 04-18-2010, 02:08 PM
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The motor has been replaced with a newer model. You may have other issues with this as well.
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  #7  
Old 04-18-2010, 04:48 PM
Merk Merk is offline
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A K341AQS is a 16 horsepower motor from a 1650.

A 149 should have a starter generator on the right side instead of a starter set up as your 149 has.
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  #8  
Old 04-18-2010, 06:26 PM
the grump the grump is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merk View Post
A K341AQS is a 16 horsepower motor from a 1650.
merk,

thank you. is this Good? or Bad?

there is a slight film of oil on the bottom of the breather whenever i check it. PO told me to use 1 (one) quart of oil on the oil change. that didn't sound "right" to me, so i scrounged around on the net and found out it takes 1.5 quarts of 30 weight--not 10/30 like the PO told me. now, with the larger motor?? how much more, if any, oil is required on an oil change?

hydrostatic drift?? what's the solution for this? i've read it's a bit more complex and difficult problem to solve.

if i leave it in "N" idling, the shifter will slowly creep forwards or backwards depending upon the degree of angle the machine is setting on. as a safety feature, i just lock the foot pedal down until i'm ready to move. i've already chased it once out across the yard and i'm too darned old, and chubby, to do it many more times.:biggrin2.gif::biggrin2.gif:

as for the "slop" in the tiller bearing, well, i'll just fool with that when i "have" to or later this fall after growing season. if it lasts that long.

the "one" thing i like about these tractors is the fact that there's nothing on them that cannot be fixed, good as new. i may not like what has happened, but i'm gonna dance with the one that brung me!!

is it still a #149? or a #169 with shady parentage?

the grump.
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  #9  
Old 04-18-2010, 06:29 PM
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Matt G. Matt G. is offline
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If it's creeping away from you, the solution is as simple as tightening the nut on the hydro lever shaft under the dash.
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  #10  
Old 04-18-2010, 06:35 PM
the grump the grump is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt G. View Post
If it's creeping away from you, the solution is as simple as tightening the nut on the hydro lever shaft under the dash.
thanks,

i'll go look at it. mama and the boys took off shopping so i've got all kinds of free time. i may be "broke" when she gets back, though.

the grump.
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