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#1
05-30-2015, 12:32 AM
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582 Repower Magnum 20
I am in the process of putting a Magnum 20 in my 582. I have made a longer driveshaft, but the longer driveshaft affects the angle of the clutch lever, with the adjustment all the way out it still doesn't work. Do I need to add a spacer hub on the back of the engine,between the cup on the crank and the 3 pin driver? I am using a 3 pin driver from a narrow frame.
In the picture I unbolted the 3 pin driver from the crank cup to see show how much it is off. Thanks for the help, Mike
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'62-O, 2-100, 71, 2-122, 2-123, 72, 127, 147, 108, 128, 149, 169, 2-1450, 582, 3-682, 2-782, 1811 1940 Farmall M, 1955 Farmall 300, 1967 Scout 800, Many Scout IIs, 1968 1200c 4x4 
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#2
05-30-2015, 10:35 AM
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In my opinion, the easiest fix is to remove the clutch release hanger bracket and move it forward. Then make a longer release adjusting rod. There's only about an inch you can move the hanger bracket before it hits the tank. The stock drive plate is dished out and without the pins is 3/4" thick. Why use a flat drive plate ?
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#3
05-30-2015, 04:02 PM
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What motor plate are you using and do you have the .469 spacers (P#950-3009) between it and the motor? This should be a direct bolt in using the correct dished clutch driver, ball bushing plate, motor plate from a 682/782 and spacers. ( I don't remember if the 582 plate is drilled in the same location due to it having a briggs from the factory). I had a kt17 in a 582 for a while from a 682 and had it set up with parts mentioned above and ran into no alignment issues. Also Im not 100% sure the 20 mag has the exact same foot print as the mag18/ kt17. Parts list for an 1806 would tell you exactly what you need. hope this helps
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Cub cadets 100, 128, 582, 1050, #2 tiller, 42" blade, 2-10" Brinly plow, 12" cat0 Brinly plow.
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#5
05-30-2015, 05:49 PM
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You shouldn't have to move the bracket, I had a kt17 in mine and now an 18command and never had to move the bracket. My stock 582 drive shaft worked fine with the kt17 but had to make a new one when I went to the command. it really needs the correct clutch driver and related parts, or the clutch driver spaced back further towards the transmission. Just my
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Cub cadets 100, 128, 582, 1050, #2 tiller, 42" blade, 2-10" Brinly plow, 12" cat0 Brinly plow.
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#6
05-30-2015, 08:43 PM
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You can see in his picture that the driveshaft is too long. He even stated as such "I have made a longer driveshaft, but the longer driveshaft affects the angle of the clutch lever"
He's installing a Magnum 20. I have two Magnums out back and could tell you exactly what the dimensional differences are. If I were so inclined but I'm not. What I stated as an opinion works, with what he has to work with. A simple fix. I'm done here.
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#7
05-30-2015, 09:06 PM
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Got it figured out, thanks for the replies. I had read somewhere that the 3 pin driver from the briggs wouldn't fit the Kohler drive cup, but it does.
Here is what I ended up doing, I used the 3 pin driver from the briggs and put the narrow frame 3 pin driver (with the pins removed) behind it to act as a small spacer and to support the driveshaft in the front. For future the reference, yes the .469 spacers (P#950-3009) between it and the motor are needed and were used. The drive shaft ended up being pretty close to stock length. The engine plate from the 582 and a 1872 were drilled the same, I compared them side by side. Now to find out how much clutch it will take to hold the Magnum. Thanks, Mike
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'62-O, 2-100, 71, 2-122, 2-123, 72, 127, 147, 108, 128, 149, 169, 2-1450, 582, 3-682, 2-782, 1811 1940 Farmall M, 1955 Farmall 300, 1967 Scout 800, Many Scout IIs, 1968 1200c 4x4
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#9
05-31-2015, 12:19 AM
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Quote:
I would have made a driveshaft to the length I needed and put a spacer in between the T/O bearing and the T/O lever. That's my late
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