Drive shaft removal ........

dustycubby · #1 05-03-2015, 03:55 PM

Do I have to take the oil pan off the engine to remove it from the engine cradle to remove the motor mounts and the drive shaft? I'm not one to have to much of a queasy stomach when working on motors but I worry about oil leaking if I remove the pan and put it back on. I don't plan on doing the modification to the cradle at this time. I just need to get the shaft out to put the fan and flex discs on. I thought I could just remove the motor mount bolts and slide the engine forward a inch or so. New to these cubs and Kohler motors. Thanks for any suggestions. RJ

olds45512 · #2 05-03-2015, 04:01 PM

What tractor? Regardless of the tractor you should not have to pull the pan to remove the engine, it should be held in with 4 bolts.

dustycubby · #3 05-03-2015, 04:20 PM

Ya I'm sorry it's a 1650 Hydro. I thought I would but was just Leary of pulling the pan. This is my first Kohler like this. RJ

Jeff in Pa · #4 05-03-2015, 04:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dustycubby

Ya I'm sorry it's a 1650 Hydro. I thought I would but was just Leary of pulling the pan. This is my first Kohler like this. RJ

If your rubber mounts are shot, I make solid motor mounts

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=20875

finsruskw · #5 05-03-2015, 05:02 PM

You do not need to do either. Follow the FSM.

Unbolt the flex discs on the rear of the DS. If you are completely removing the driveshaft from the unit, you will need to unbolt the front one as well. Remove the snap ring from the fan collar and slide the fan forward on the drive shaft. You may want to mark the location of the fan, or what's left of it, on the DS to assure the new one is located correctly, not much clearance in there! Remove the spirol pin from the rear coupler making sure to support the driveshaft from underneath to prevent damage to the hydro input while driving the pin out, and slide it forward on the drive shaft, remove the spirol pin from the coupler on the hydro, again, support the coupler/drive shaft, and slide it forward on the driveshaft. There is a centering ball bearing (DON"T LOOSE IT!!) between the end of the DS and the Hydro coupler that will fall out when you slide the couplers forward on the driveshaft.

Reassemble in the reverse order using one flex disc in front and 2 in the rear (If yours don't already have 2 in the rear)
I would also use new spirol pins as well.

If you do it the way you suggest, the engine will have to be raised enough for the pan to clear the front axle cross member.
IF you remove the pan as well, you may risk damage to the rod journal oil slinger when moving the engine.
Best to leave the pan on and completely remove the engine from the unit. Again, follow the FSM step by step,
The front engine mount bolts are accessed through holes in the engine cradle above both sides of the front axle. You will have to jack up the front of the tractor enough to let the axle pivot down far enough to gain access to these 2 bolts, That's the worst part. Other than that....Piece of cake!!

Good Luck!!

dustycubby · #6 05-03-2015, 06:11 PM

That sounds like abetter idea. There is no fan on the shaft and the shaft is pretty rusty. I see that the fan is supposed to be 1 1/8" from the face of the rear coupler on the flex disc. Are these pins usually tough to punch out or are they fairly easy ? Just wondering before I try it if I need to use some PB Blaster on then. The centering ball is between the end of the DS and the shaft for the hydro right ? Thanks for the info. Going out after dinner to try to get it out. Have to wait until the son gets home so I can get my bottle jack to put under the shaft. Thanks again. I will take some pictures of the process as I go along.
RJ

finsruskw · #7 05-03-2015, 07:12 PM

If you have some roll pin punches, it's not too bad a job. Just be sure and get a good straight shot at it. A set of them at Sears is about 18$ or 20$ or so IIRC. and will come in handy working on these Cubs, they use different size pins throughout.

And yes, the ball bearing goes between the end of the DS and the hydro coupler. If the shaft is rusty, you may want to sand it or wire brush it a couple inches forward of the fan to make sliding it and the couplers forward, PB would be a good thing to use there I suppose.

dustycubby · #8 05-03-2015, 07:27 PM

A couple of pics of the drive shaft at the rear coupler and just forward of that. I believe the fan has been gone a very long time. Thanks. RJ

finsruskw · #9 05-03-2015, 08:23 PM

Wow! You better plan on replacing the rag joints on both ends and double 'em up on the rear.

I don't think the fans come with a new snap ring though/ No signs of the old one still on the DS??

Some emery cloth to clean up the shaft will do wonders moving the couplers forward. Oh, and inspect the drive cup and ball joint on the flywheel end to while you are in there.

dustycubby · #10 05-03-2015, 08:52 PM

Ya, there is no sign of a fan anywhere. Is there a ball bearing at both ends of the shaft? I haven't been able to find a exploded view of the drive shaft with all parts listed. Thanks. RJ