K301 Carb Adjustment

[Locrian]

Hi folks,
It's been a wile, but im hoping I can get some advice and here is the scenario:

Last fall I put a little MMO in the gas tank per the instructions, and near immediately it started having running problems which I attributed to the MMO doing it's job and loosening sediment and shellacking in the gas tank, carb or anywhere else. It would run at the lowest idle but wouldn't take any gas/throttle, so I figured the high speed jet got clogged. I put the machine up as I'd broken my ankle a couple months before and didn't want to be walking back and forth for tools.

Now this year, I removed the carb, disassembled it noting the position of the Jets which was 3 turns on the main and 2 1/4 on the low idle. When I removed the carb there was no gasket between the carb and block and came that way from the previous owner, but a gasket has been put back during assembly. When I put the carb back together, I looked up default starting point for the carb and set them at 2 for the main and 2.5 turns out for the low. I figured perhaps the extra air that may have been leaking in from the back side of the carburetor was compensated for by allowing more fuel with the extra turn.

I can't get it to run using either the default settings or the old settings. It does fire, but that is about it. And it will fire on every key turn. I notice the carb throat wet so it seems to be getting gas, but I can't for the life of me get it to run well enough to even do the final adjustment needed for the jets.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. I'm getting tired of recharging the battery in between attempts.....

Thanks in advance.

[Cub Cadet 123]

Couple of questions....

Did you soak your carb for at least a day before re-assembling it back together?

Is your carb just wet in the throat of the carb or is it leaking fuel?

Did you replace your pin on your float? .... and did you align your gasket during re-assembly? I use just a very small amount of petroleum jelly.....and I do mean small amount (not visible to the eye, just enough to make the surface tacky) to hold the gaskets in place during my carb rebuilds.

Cub Cadet 123

[mickb72]

Hi, you say (will fire every key turn, but won't run) Bad key switch? Running at only idle could be bad or ungrounded condenser. Change or clean and reset points. I like your original carb settings, a lot of mine run there, or real close. Mike

[Locrian]

Originally Posted by Cub Cadet 123

Couple of questions....

1)Did you soak your carb for at least a day before re-assembling it back together?

2)Is your carb just wet in the throat of the carb or is it leaking fuel?

3)Did you replace your pin on your float? .... 4)and did you align your gasket during re-assembly? I use just a very small amount of petroleum jelly.....and I do mean small amount (not visible to the eye, just enough to make the surface tacky) to hold the gaskets in place during my carb rebuilds.

Cub Cadet 123

1) Yes I used the gallon of chem dip from walmart with the parts tray. The carb came out much cleaner then it was put in. I used the air compressor to blow though all the gas inlet and jet holes.

2) just in the throat. Doesn't leak anywhere I can see.

3) Yes, I put the whole kit in, needle, pin, needle holder, etc.

4) I didn't use Vaseline, but when I assembled the carb it was upside down (on work bench) and the gaskets stayed in place nicely. I get no leaking from the bowl.

[Locrian]

Originally Posted by mickb72

Hi, you say (will fire every key turn, but won't run) Bad key switch? Running at only idle could be bad or ungrounded condenser. Change or clean and reset points. I like your original carb settings, a lot of mine run there, or real close. Mike

New switch and it doesn't run at all....idle or full throttle. It just fires, but never "stays" running.

[jimbob200521]

I'd be checking your points. It almost sounds to me like your timing is off.

[J-Mech]

You need to figure out if this is a fuel or ignition issue. You haven't really given enough info for us to tell.

If you haven't done it, drain the tank, replace the fuel lines and filter (clean the sediment bowl if that's all it has). If it still doesn't run, figure out if it's getting fuel. If it's not, then your carb may be plugged still. If your getting fuel, it has an ignition issue. (Which could include a wiring problem.)

[bkw3614]

Running at only idle could be bad or ungrounded condenser. Change or clean and reset points. I like your original carb settings, a lot of mine run there, or real close.

I run about 3/4 ounce of MMO to one gallon of gasoline in my K-301 on a regular basis. I think it helps with upper cylinder lubrication. Having said that, I have never run into any problems with fuel in the engine, even after sitting over a Minnesota winter. The Cub Cadet has never failed to start on last fall's gasoline, nor have there been carburetor issues.

I agree with Mike, and his quote. I think it should, at least, run on those carburetor settings; maybe not well, but it shouldn't quit. I would begin to check electrical and timing issues. If you do change the points, change the condenser, too. There has to be something that is turning off the engine.

Please let us know your progress.

Brian Wittman

[Locrian]

Well thanks for all the ideas, but it seems that it was still a fuel delivery problem. I got frustrated and got the local small engine repairman down to my house to look at it, and he even had it running slightly, but his recommendation was get a new carb for it. Not even a rebuild he said. He checked out all the electronic system and even did compression testing (120 lbs)

To answer some of the stuff above, I had cleaned the tank, using the pea gravel method and it cleaned up nicely on the inside, and Jim said I did everything right. He replaced the fuel filter which I hadn't done and even put on new hoses in between every and didn't charge me a dime. But he said the carb most likely has something trapped in one of the fine holes and no amount of soaking may get it out, and advised a new carb. So saving money on the house call (and the couple of parts we were just given), it's already ordered and a new one should be here in a few days.

I'll post how things went with the new carb to close this thread out when I receive it for any future searches by members.

I have had a concern about the air being sucked in at the throttle shaft anyways. It wasn't as sloppy as the 149 I used to have that still ran, but there was play which i didn't like.....So this kinda settles it for me...No need to get the bushing put in or worry about some trapped material I may not be able to free with chem dip and an air compressor...

[J-Mech]

Don't throw the old carb away. If you don't want it, I'll pay shipping for you to send it here.