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#1
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I finally had enough time and space in my garage to start the tear down. I plan to start ordering parts in the next week or two the plan is to replace all seals, bearings, gaskets and any other wear items. If the engine is in good shape, it will get rebuilt, otherwise look to repower. Jmech, do you do rebuilds on the Briggs? Also any tips or suggestions on things to pay extra attention to would be greatly appreciated.
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#2
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Looks like a good start!
And btw, I'll bet ![]() ![]()
__________________
-Ryan
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#3
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Looks like a good start!
I have one tore down too. No, I won't rebuild a B&S. Like we talked the other day, if the motor is bad, your better off with an M or a CH. The motor I pulled out of mine is bad. I have no intentions of fixing it..... even for myself (no labor, LOL). Fixed your pic too. It was hurting my neck. ![]() |
#4
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Thanks for fixing the pic. Silly iphone. If I have to repower I will probably go with the ch. Thanks for the input gentlemen. I'll keep updating as she progresses.
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#5
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It will look dramatically different when you are done!
When you say replace all seals, gaskets, bearings - do you have a list? Im curious as I am contemplating similar decisions. In particular, do you include: front wheel bearings? hydro to rear end gasket? trunion gasket? rear end bearings? (Im not sure whats in there... more than one I think but I wouldnt think they all need it) lift cylinder rebuild? the bushings for the brake lever, etc, where they go through the frame? (maybe put zerk fittings on these?) Most people dont take these apart for painting. hydro release valves? adding zerk fittings anywhere else? rear end cover, back cover gaskets? rear axle seals/bearings? rag joints? what did I miss? Im just asking because I am doing some, but not all of these on mine and would love to hear others recommendations on which are worth it and which are better left alone until a problem. (ok, it just hit me that yours is not a hydro, and manual lift so not all these apply. But some do...?) |
#6
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I wouldn't replace every bearing. No need. If you have it apart, look them over. If the rear end has had water in it, look them over. Otherwise, they don't very seldom fail.
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#7
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I agree with this. If the bearings roll nice and don't have pits in them then there's no need to replace them unless you have extra money to blow.
__________________
Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
#8
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Ok, thanks for saving me $. I just thought while I was in there, but if they don't go out very often I'm ok with just inspecting bearings first. Thanks everyone.
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#9
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So tearing into engine resulted in mice losing a home, and discovering that both cylinder walls have grooves in them tat could be felt through the rag used to wipe them down. Looks like a ch repower is in this cubs future. Thanks again.
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#10
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It's been awhile since I was able to do much with the 582, but today I was able to pick up a low hour Briggs opposed 18 on the cheap.
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