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#1
12-27-2014, 02:41 PM
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1811 No Crank Questions
New here and last posted about a carb rebuild kit for an 1811 that I am trying to resuscitate. Anyway, got the carb (and entire fuel system) rebuilt.
Now I am struggling with a no crank condition. The starter is new as the old one was definitely bad. Replaced the starter and still won't crank. When I turn the key the headlights come on but nothing happens in the start/crank position of the ignition switch. A few questions... 1) The wiring diagram indicates the seat and brake switches are "N/O" which I take to mean normally open. Does that mean that in order for the tractor to start, they need to be open? I've tried them open and jumped and nothing made the tractor crank. 2) I jumped the solenoid next to the battery and the starter engaged and spun the engine. Should I suspect the solenoid as being bad? Or is something further upstream not telling the solenoid to activate? Any help or guidance as to what to try next would be greatly appreciated. 
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#2
12-27-2014, 03:03 PM
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Get a test light and test the circuit from the key to the solenoid. You have to have your foot on the brake pedal and the PTO off in order for it to start. Do you have a wiring diagram? If not, there is a service manual in the tech section that has one in it. If you still need help or have questions just ask!
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#3
12-27-2014, 06:29 PM
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Quote:
Means.....you have to sit in the seat and depress the Brake Pedal. The seat switch is needed to keep the engine running when in reverse...NOT to start the engine. In addition, the PTO switch has to be in the OFF position.
__________________
[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1:
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#4
12-27-2014, 09:17 PM
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While sittin' on the tractor with clutch depressed, might try wiggling the PTO on/off switch while the key is in the crank position. It is not unheard of to have one a bit intermittent from sitting. Just something else to check, ---- it's bit me a few times.
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#5
12-27-2014, 11:07 PM
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Try what George said and try pressing up and down on the brake pedal too. My 1211 acts up sometimes and I have to do that to get it to crank. I'm going to remedy that situation, not going to say how here.
__________________
Brian April 1979 1200 Quietline 44A deck 1988 1211 customized into a 1288 with a K301AQS 38C deck and a 1864 54” deck . Snow blades 42" and 54" . Brinly disk, brinly plow a cultivator and a $5 brinly yard rake! 
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#6
12-28-2014, 09:45 AM
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Thanks guys. With the seat and brake switches temporarily bypassed for diagnostic purposes, I figured out what the problem is....actually problems with an "S".
Both the ignition switch and the PTO switch are bad. They had enough corrosion on them that I should have suspected them in the first place. I had another ignition switch on hand so that is installed. I have to get a new PTO switch. Anyone know the difference between PTO switch 925-0893 and 925-3022? They seem to both be coming up as the switch for this unit.
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#7
12-28-2014, 10:17 AM
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According to the Cub Cadet Parts Manual, the 925-0893 is the only PTO switch for the 1811 and is the correct one.
The other switch is totally different in configuration and won't work.
__________________
[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1:
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#8
12-29-2014, 12:31 AM
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One other note is that the headlight ON position is a distinct click back towards the off position from the start/run position. You should not get the headlights on when cranking.
__________________
1811 Hydro "Failing to prepare is preparing to fail". 
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