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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#1
10-06-2014, 08:45 PM
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129 Ignition trouble, weak spark, new parts/wires.
So I've got this 129 mower that I really like. It pulls twelve foot logs, plows snow, mows corn, it's a tank... when it RUNS!
I rebuilt the engine last winter, and it ran and mowed well for about 8-10 weeks this spring. Then it started dying under load, when hot, and eventually got so bad it wouldn't run at all. I replaced the carb, points, coil, and head gasket, with a resurface on the block and head, with no change. Finally I tried a new spark plug, and it did the trick immediately. I mowed with it for the past 4 weeks, and it mowed and ran well, not an issue to speak of. This past weekend it was tough to start, and was running sloppy as it warmed up. When it got fully hot, about 15-20 minutes into mowing, it again began dying under load. I tried several new spark plugs, and they helped somewhat, but didn't bring it nearly back to a healthy run. I ran a new wire from the coil to the points, switched out the plug to coil wire, both with no change. I popped out the plugs (tried this with a few of them), and held them against the head while cranking. The spark was always weak, yellow/orange and small. The spark at the points is bright blue as it should be, and the points are correctly gapped. What other parts of the ignition system do I need to check? Something seems to be working intermittently. It's also strange to me that the new spark plug did the trick the first time, and not the second time... Any help would be great. Thankyou, Alex 
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#3
10-06-2014, 10:01 PM
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I'm not running a condensor. I was told it's only there to prevent radio interference....
It ran fine this way for weeks, with blue sparks at the points
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#4
10-06-2014, 10:13 PM
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Quote:
__________________
(2) Original, 100, 102, 124, 73, 800, #1 and #2 cart, brinly plows, disk, IH184, IH244, 1948 F Cub
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#5
10-06-2014, 10:37 PM
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Quote:
After installing them, don't just gap them. Set the timing like this...... http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=33461
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#6
10-06-2014, 10:51 PM
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Ohhhh boy..
Well OK, I'll buy a condensor and points. Thanks alot to my Napa guy for that radio interference info... How do I check for a weak coil? Is it strange to you that it all ran fine for hours, over weeks, and then suddenly went bad? Thankyou very much for the help
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#7
10-06-2014, 10:56 PM
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No, it's not odd. It will run without one, for a while. You can ohm the coil if you want. I'd just check the spark after points and condenser replacement. Coil test is here: http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=11
Unfortunately, there are parts guys out there who think they are mechanics. 
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#8
10-07-2014, 06:16 AM
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Quote:
__________________
[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1:
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#9
10-07-2014, 09:00 AM
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There was a nice lady at Autozone who told my buddy "They never put drum brakes on the front of cars, they are only on the rear" when he tried to buy shoes for the front of a 57 Chevy.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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