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#1
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Hi there folks,
I recently picked up a 1967 Cub Cadet 122 with a custom built front end loader and a week after getting it home it won't start. The guy I bought it off of said the starter generator was acting up before so I figured that was the issue and ordered a new one from Amazon and put it in. Still won't turn over with the key. The battery is new as well. When I turn the key over I get a 'click' from the ignition and then nothing. It will start right up when it is bump started by pulling it behind the quad so I'm guessing it is in the ignition or wiring. I disconnected all the wires between the battery,ignition and starter generator and cleaned all the contacts. The only ones I haven't cleaned yet are the ones on the voltage regulator since the screws were so rusted in there that I broke a couple screwdrivers trying to get them out. I also bench tested the new starter generator to confirm that it works. I'm thinking of getting a new wiring harness and redoing the wiring since even if that's not the problem it will probably eliminate a bunch of headaches in the future. Would the Solenoid cause the issue of the 'clicking' when the key is turned but the starter not turning? What about the voltage regulator? If I'm going to be ordering parts I would like to order most of the possibilities of issues at once instead of paying for shipping multiple times. Thanks, Trevor And here's some pictures of the unit to thank you for your help... ![]()
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#2
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More than likely a bad solenoid. A quick test with a simple test light or multimeter would confirm.
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#3
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I agree, and thats one nice 122!
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122 w/hydro lift, 3pt, creeper and lights, 102 w/creeper, 127 w/hydro lift, 3pt and lights, 72 w/hydro lift, 3pt and creeper. 1966 CW36, 1966 #1 Cart, 1966 #1 Garden Tiller, QA42, 3sets of weights 1939 International LA 3-5hp Hit N Miss Engine, 1944 International LB 1.5-2.5hp Hit N Miss Engine. I'm just your average 35yr old retired disabled veteran. ![]() |
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#4
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Hi Trevor
Just gotta say nice pick up and I'd be glad to swap you even for a perfectly starting 122 without a loader..... However since you probably won't go for that, on to fixing yours.... 1. To start you need a test light or preferably a volt meter. 2. Find yourself a good clean ground somewhere on the chassis and connect the ground clip of the test light or the negative side of the voltmeter to it. 3. If using voltmeter, set it to D.C. and 12v or more range. 4. With the positive probe of the volt meter or the test light check positive terminal of battery for light or 12 volts (lamp lit). If nothing, battery is bad or you have no ground to chassis - fix it. 5. If yes, go to the solenoid and determine which heavy lug has the cable from the battery connected to it and check for 12 volts (lamp lit) on that lug. If nothing you have a bad connection at either end or the battery cable is bad. 6. If yes, cable, connections, and chassis ground is good. Move to the other heavy lug on the solenoid with the heavy cable that goes to the "A" terminal on the starter/gen. With the key in the off position you should have zero volts (or no light). Turn the key all the way to the start position, you should hear solenoid click and see 12 volts (lamp lit). If no click, you have a bad solenoid, bad key switch, bad safety switches, or bad wiring, or solenoid mounting may not be making good ground. If solenoid clicks but no voltage (or light) on lug you have bad solenoid. 7. If you get 12 volts (or light) move to the "A" terminal on the starter. With the key in the off position you should see zero volts (no light). Turn the key all the way to the start position, solenoid should click and you should see 12 volts (lamp lit). If no, you have bad connections at either end of cable or a bad cable. If yes but the starter is still not spinning you have a bad starter or the starter is not grounded to the chassis. |
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#5
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Thanks for the quick replies guys!
I am leaning towards the solenoid or wiring. I'll probably order the harness and he solenoid at the same time. If the solenoid 'clicks' when the key is turned to the start position then the ignition switch should be good right? The voltage regulator shouldn't have anything to do with starting should it? Is there anyway to test it? I have a multimeter to test things but I'm not too familiar with it. Quote:
The 122 was a great deal and I have no problems getting the little bugs sorted out. I got it off the original owner who was an aircraft mechanic. It was used for pulling planes around an airport for the first part of it's life before it was replaced and he took it home. He said it sat in his garage for a bunch of years before he decided to build the loader for it to do some landscaping in his back yard. After he finished his landscaping it sat in his garage again until he decided to sell it. I even got the original owners manual with it! The loader is really well built with the Volvo power steering pump and he said that the rams for lifting were actually left overs from a plane they fixed up. |
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#6
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Your solenoid is nothing but a switch with big heavy contacts. If those contacts burn or corrode they will not make good contact even tho you can hear the solenoid clicking. |
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#7
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Quote:
I stopped by a local auto parts store and picked up this 12V ignition solenoid. It looks like it should mount up alright. I'll report back after the weekend if it fixes my problems. |
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#8
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Welcome to OCC, sorry your first visit was for assistance in fixing a problem, and not just to show us your good looking 122 and FEL
and to say hi.Hope you stick around and let us know the outcome of your 122 troubles. Great bunch here with years of knowledge. Follow the instructions given and you should be fine. But I wouldn't throw a bunch of things at it until you have the trouble diagnosed. Get's costly in a hurry. Good luck
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Make the best of each day , Todd ![]() Original's Face Lift thread.http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=34439 (O) Start to Finish video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAoUNNiLwKs Wheel Around videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUL-m6Bramk They can't all be turn key! |
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#9
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I've been around since I laid eyes on the unit and was doing research on it. It just happened that my first post was asking for help which is usually how it goes. I'm sure it's just a few hiccups that need to be sorted out and it'll be good as new. I think it's spent most of its life sitting which isn't always good for things.
I was using it for 4 or 5 hours straight one day spreading a load of gravel on my new driveway up to the new house we are building when it developed this issue. It performed the job like a champ and pretty much paid for itself that day. I think it's going to see a lot of use doing landscaping work in the next couple years. It looks like a great community you have here and I look forward to becoming a Part of it and hopefully learning a thing or two. |
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#10
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Here is a great writing on the S.G.
http://www.simpletractors.com/servic...-generator.htm And the regulator. http://www.simpletractors.com/servic...regulators.htm
__________________
Make the best of each day , Todd ![]() Original's Face Lift thread.http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=34439 (O) Start to Finish video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAoUNNiLwKs Wheel Around videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUL-m6Bramk They can't all be turn key! |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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