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#1
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Well, hello to all. You may remember me asking why the belt kept flying off the 42" deck on this cub I picked up. Well, I finally felt good enough to get on it. Re-built the pto clutch and took all the advise you guys gave me about pulleys and deck adjustment and didn't stop there. My friend got me some commercial paint they use at his rental place and since it will never be a parade tractor, I used it. We sanded primed painted and decaled. Not the right colors, but I like it. It cuts great and has a very strong engine. I do have a question about the pto pressure spring plate. The guy I bought the kit from sent the new style which uses 2 plates, but he said only use one. When you use that plate, the gauge is useless. So I carefully kept the nuts on the screws equidistant and failed twice to get it to disengage correctly. Now, after the last attempt, the push button is not even touching the wear button when in the disengaged position. It seems bent in, of maybe the friction disc is fused? Don't know if this is possible or not?? But it stays engaged. When I take it apart again, I will see. Is there an improved spring disc for the 105? (narrow frame) Or, should I just look around for the original one with the little bent ends. anyway here is a couple pics of before and after, Thanks again, for all the help. Cal
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#2
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Looks great!!!
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Christ died for you, live for Him!!! Bob |
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#3
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Am I correct in thinking that you are using a Wide Frame style PTO spring on a Narrow Frame style PTO?
I have gotten new to me tractors with this same set-up and neither of them worked. There are no "pins" on a NF pto and WF springs will slip and turn to the point that the springs will get under the "levers". I can not say with any certainty that this will not work, but I do believe that it will be extremely difficult (at best) to get and keep it adjusted properly. Then again, it may not work that way at all. My best advice, get the right parts and put it together like it is supposed to be. Sorry, I know that's not what you wanted to hear. Good Luck. BTW the 105 looks great.
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More IH Cub Cadet Parts RIGHT HERE |
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#4
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Hi Sam, thanks for the reply. Maybe this kit he sent is for a wide frame. The old fellow seemed to be very knowledgeable about this but he said the plate could slip some but it shouldn't matter. However I think you are right. I can take it off quickly as everything is freed up, so I don't mind that. The original plate if correct had an 1/8" or so bent down at the tip of the 3 ends that fit inside the outer rim of the pulley in a small grove. The new plate went right over the whole outside and was a thinner plate it seems. So I will look for the original one. Not sure what you meant about "pins", but I think I am following what you are saying. Thanks, Cal
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#5
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Check this out cal, hope this helps.
Btw your cub looks really good and the colors are very close to original. Great job http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=9
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(2) Original, 100, 102, 124, 73, 800, #1 and #2 cart, brinly plows, disk, IH184, IH244, 1948 F Cub |
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#6
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I took the lazy way out and got a brand new 25yr old nos pto just so I wouldn't have to deal with it.... But You did a GREAT job on the on the cub.....
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122 w/hydro lift, 3pt, creeper and lights, 102 w/creeper, 127 w/hydro lift, 3pt and lights, 72 w/hydro lift, 3pt and creeper. 1966 CW36, 1966 #1 Cart, 1966 #1 Garden Tiller, QA42, 3sets of weights 1939 International LA 3-5hp Hit N Miss Engine, 1944 International LB 1.5-2.5hp Hit N Miss Engine. I'm just your average 35yr old retired disabled veteran. ![]() |
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#7
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Very nice. Great job.
__________________
Patience is the key to success . The difficult, I'll do today . The impossible, I'll do tomorrow
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#8
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Hey Alvy, yep that is what originally was on mine. The plate with the bent tabs. That is what I need. The plate I received and is on there now is just flat and wider. That pic clears up everything. Maybe the new plate works for some, but my narrow frame wants the original. And thanks too all who said nice job. I didn't tell you all my friend put the 2 IH decals on upside down while I was having a sandwich. so the dot on the I is on the bottom. But I figure it is now a "One of a Kind" and could be worth thousands in time. Thanks again too all.
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#9
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There you go, the pictures in Alvy's post might help clear things up.
The pins that I spoke of earlier are shown in the picture of the "B" pto, they hold the springs from slipping around, an "A" type pto doesn't have them. The ends of the "A" spring are bent as you mentioned, they have little points on them that "dig in" to the casting preventing it from slipping. Any rebuild kit that I ever bought for a "B" type pto had 2 of the flat springs in it. Pictures of what you have there might prove to be helpful.
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More IH Cub Cadet Parts RIGHT HERE |
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#10
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You did a nice job on a good cub that will give you many decades more of quality service. Take a bow, Cal!
Cub Cadet 123
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Still don't know what I'm doing in OHIO?.....If you find me, then please point me back toward INDIANA.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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