Cub 108 clutch drive shaft

[Dave_With_Cub108]

Cub Enthusiasts:

I have a Cub 108 and am rebuilding the clutch. I have mostly new parts, clutch friction disk, throw out bearing, spacer, teaser spring, main compression spring and clutch lever.

Questions:
The clutch shaft service rod is a little bit worn in the vicinity of the throw out bearing. If it has only about 1/32” of indentation in this area, is this OK or should this be replaced? None of the pin holes are wallowed out. It is kind of pricey ($91) and I already have at least $180 into the clutch parts.

Should the clutch shaft service rod be greased? There are no instructions that I see to do so but I would think that some bearing grease would be better than nothing.

Any advice on how to compress the larger, compression spring in order to get the spiral pin spring into place?

[olds45512]

Me personally id use it if its only a little worn but others may have a different opinion. I'd clean up that area with some sand paper and put a little grease on the shaft so the throw out bearing slides nice. As for getting it back together I do it in the tractor. Put the spring and throw out bearing on and then put the arm on with the top pivot pin in place, I then put vise grips on the bottom of the arm and muscle it back until I can start the nut on the clutch pedal rod. Once the nuts on I put the clutch pedal down with the lock and then start putting the pins in.

[ka9egw]

I have never done this but I wonder if a valve spring compressor the kind for overhead valve engines looks kind of like a big C clamp that swallows the entire head would do it?

[Yosemite Sam]

$91.00 is kinda high. I sell brand new stainless drive shafts for $30.00 plus shipping.

I personally would not use a worn shaft, even if I didn't make new ones myself.

Pretty sure I have a couple on the shelf ready to go... You could probably have it before the weekend.

[sawdustdad]

I've used 5/8 steel rod from HD or Lowes. Use the existing shaft to drill new holes. Or, Sam's got an easy solution, too!

Compress the spring in a bench vise--clamp the shaft and then tap the rod down to compress the spring. Use wood or brass faces on the vise jaws. Don't stand over the rod, looking down at it!

[Jeff in Pa]

Originally Posted by Yosemite Sam

$91.00 is kinda high. .............

I personally would not use a worn shaft, even if I didn't make new ones myself.

........................

If in doubt, replace it with a new one.


The driveshaft spins at up to 3600 rpm and transmit the power to the rear. A worn driveshaft will wear more in short order.

[Yosemite Sam]

Originally Posted by Jeff in Pa

If in doubt, replace it with a new one.


The driveshaft spins at up to 3600 rpm and transmit the power to the rear. A worn driveshaft will wear more in short order.

I may be wrong, but my thought has always been that a worn part (such as this) will cause undue premature wear on the new parts too.

[Jeff in Pa]

Originally Posted by Yosemite Sam

I may be wrong, but my thought has always been that a worn part (such as this) will cause undue premature wear on the new parts too.

I agree, the excessive clearance will cause wear on all the components.

[Dave_With_Cub108]

Thanks guys. After replacing most of the other clutch parts, I will take the advice to also replace the clutch drive shaft. This way, the whole assembly will last longer without premature wear. Sam, I will contact your web site.

And thanks for the various ways to compress and reassemble the clutch.

Thanks again!

[rwairforce]

Good choice. I can think of very few things that $30 could be spent on that will provide the years of service.