102 Clutch rebuild...washers?

[lwrehm]

With the help of the recent thread on removing the driveshaft pin to remove my drive shaft. I did find out why it was so hard to remove, there is a bit of a divot on one side.

So I'm getting ready to make my parts list, and in looking at the diagram they don't show washers, but they are listed in the parts list. Who ever put it together last did put washers at each end of the spring but the one on the clutch end was all torn up and wedged between the spring and the drive shaft wearing a nice groove in the shaft, I have a salvage one to replace that. I also need a thrust bearing and a teaser spring for sure (old one is broke in two).

[olds45512]

Are you asking if there should be washers? If so the answer is yes, one on each end of the main spring.

[ironman]

Originally Posted by lwrehm

With the help of the recent thread on removing the driveshaft pin to remove my drive shaft. I did find out why it was so hard to remove, there is a bit of a divot on one side.

So I'm getting ready to make my parts list, and in looking at the diagram they don't show washers, but they are listed in the parts list. Who ever put it together last did put washers at each end of the spring but the one on the clutch end was all torn up and wedged between the spring and the drive shaft wearing a nice groove in the shaft, I have a salvage one to replace that. I also need a thrust bearing and a teaser spring for sure (old one is broke in two).

In place of the teaser spring you can use a spacer and a 5/8" lock washer.

I have done this (on work tractors) and it works fine.

You can see info at Brian Millers pulling tips website. On his homepage look for box with links to drive train performance and click on "Improving the drive clutch assembly in a Cub Cadet". Look about 1/2 way down that page.

This is from that page.....
To prevent the teasing spring from possibly breaking and to help the clutch(es) to engage more smoothly, simply don't use the teasing spring. Instead, replace where the teasing spring goes on the driveshaft with a piece of heavy wall round steel tubing that measures 7/8" o.d. x 3/8" (narrow frame) or 5/8" (wide frame) long x 41/64" i.d. Then install an ordinary zinc-plated 5/8" i.d. split lock washer between the pressure plates, dead center of the clutch disc. Use two zinc-plated steel split lock washers (one for each clutch disc) if using double clutches.

The lock washer does two things - it acts like a spring, which forces the pressure plates apart, it provides smooth clutch engagement and it'll help to prevent the possibility of the clutch disc from "grabbing" upon take-off. In addition, the spring-like action of the lock washer will expand the pressure plates when the clutch/brake pedal is fully depressed so they will release from the clutch disc. Doing this will guarantee that the clutch will engage smoothly and release every time. So when reassembling a clutch assembly, don't install the teasing spring. Instead, install the spacer and lock washer as described above. You'll be glad you did.

(I tried to paste in link, no can do)

[lwrehm]

Thanks for the info, yes I was trying to ask if 2 washers are needed at either end of the main clutch spring.

I did read Miller's page referenced when I was trying to find if there was a better way to get that darn sproil pin out. That little bugger cost me several minutes in insanity yesterday morning.