K321 still won't run right!

[specthompson]

My buddy bought a 1450 a couple weeks ago and since he doesnt really know much about engines or anything in general ive been giving it the large amount of TLC it needed. But anyways, its got the stock k321 in it. The EXACT day he bought it, it started running terrible.. missing at mid-high rpms, blow by, burning oil, the list goes on.. So i took it for a few days to fix it. First was a carb rebuild, second was a valve job (valves were WAAAAAAY out of adjustment btw..), third was a new head gasket since it had a.. copper head gasket. Anyways after alllll that it STILL wont run right! Ive adjusted the carb back down to almost what my 10hp uses and it still misses! I need to check the timing on it but im not sure how. Anyways if i could have some hints on to why this is happening? Oh and before my rant and questions are over, the last 1450 that i personally had, ran like shit too. Any help is appreciated!!

[kostendorf]

I have a pdf. file on static timing to set your points using an ohm meter, but its to big to post here. I would have to email it to you.

[J-Mech]

Set the timing and give it a tune up. But if it has blow by and it's burning oil, your probably just wasting time and money. Sounds like it's time for a rebuild.

[specthompson]

The sad thing is he paid 350 for it.. it had lots more problems than just the engine. Ill gap the points since thats about all i can do as of right now.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by specthompson

The sad thing is he paid 350 for it.. it had lots more problems than just the engine. Ill gap the points since thats about all i can do as of right now.

That is not the correct way to time the engine. If that's all your going to do, don't bother. It won't be right.

[specthompson]

Well you see, i dont have a timing light or anything and the only voltmeter i have access to is not here so i cant really do much

[Leadslingingdaddy]

What's the compression reading...thats if you can do it with the ACR...?

[kostendorf]

Sent you the pdf. file, I hope you got it.

[specthompson]

Thats one of the tools i NEED is a compression tester. Im not too sure how much compression its got but it feels around 75-80ish. I got the pdf, thanks

[Yosemite Sam]

Originally Posted by specthompson

The EXACT day he bought it, it started running terrible

If it ran good when he brought it home, and all of a sudden started running badly, I would suspect that the problem was something simple that someone mistook for something complicated.

Originally Posted by specthompson

second was a valve job (valves were WAAAAAAY out of adjustment btw..)

Specifically, what was done to the valves?

Originally Posted by specthompson

third was a new head gasket since it had a.. copper head gasket.

Did you sand the head flat before putting it back on?

Originally Posted by specthompson

Ive adjusted the carb back down to almost what my 10hp uses

I have absolutely no idea what this means. Each engine and carburetor combination have their own characteristics, one doesn't adjust a carburetor by the size of the engine, it almost sounds like you have screwed the needles further into the carburetor, thus cutting off the fuel and air that it needs to run properly. Reducing the amount of fuel delivered to a small engine will only cause it to run badly and overheat.

Originally Posted by specthompson

I need to check the timing on it but im not sure how.

Oddly enough, over the past few weeks I have had this same discussion with a number of different people, who didn't understand the whole "timing" thing.

I explain it like this... The size of the gap between the points doesn't matter AT All. As a matter of fact the size of the gap, has absolutely NOTHING to do with it, the gap could be a foot and a half or 1/1,000,000.

What does matter is, WHEN the points "fire". At the exact instant that the points no longer make contact with each other BANG the plug fires. Not at all trying to sound like a wise guy... but it is really that simple, don't try to over-think it.

This point (the exact instant that the points no longer make contact with each other) is what we seek when timing an engine. We have to find that point and move it to the exact spot that the engine likes best, which is 10 degrees before top dead center.

My preferred method is to use a simple test light. Attach the clip on the light to the Neg. side of the coil. Then ground the point on the light to a place where (when the light comes on) you can see directly into the "sight hole" on the flywheel shroud. Turn the key to the "run" position and rotate the crank shaft (in its normal running direction) until the light comes on. Adjust the points so the "S" on the flywheel is in the center of the hole OR the line on the flywheel (under the "S") is lined up with the line on the bearing plate (depending on the model of engine you are working on).

Once you think you have it right, rotate the engine several more times watching the sight hole to make sure.

This is a very simple process, however it can be somewhat time consuming and frustrating until you get the hang of it. So put the feeler gauge back in the drawer and prepare yourself for a very tedious process that will end up making your engine run smoother than you have ever seen it run before.