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#1
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How many of you have built your own trailers? I have built my past two trailers and would only buy one factory if I needed a dump trailer.
Mine is a heavily modified Shasta camper frame. The frame has been beefed up, and I made the fenders, side rails and tail gate for it. It's been a good trailer so far. What's yours look like? |
#2
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Here is mine
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#3
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Ill be keeping a eye on this thread especially if someone has a nice home made car trailer as im thinking of building one to replace my 16 ft utility trailer
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No more cubs. But never fear there will be more ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
#4
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I built several flat bed trailers, but, somebody always came along with more $ than I thought they were worth!
![]() I was ready to build another, and saw this dump about 10 years ago! ![]() ![]() It looked so lonely on the lot, I had to bring it home! ![]() I foresee no non-dump in my future. |
#5
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I'll try and add pics soon....
I have a very nice one. A friend of mine used to build trailers, so I asked him to build me one. (I could/would have done it myself, but since he used to build them he got this done in about 1/3 of the time it would have taken me.) I had an older light duty car trailer. It was tandem axle with brakes on both axles but they were only 3500# axles. We started with that. Cut the axles out and put new 8000# axles under it. Doubled and widened the frame. Added a lot of steel to the tongue, and lengthened it. 16' base with a 2' dovetail. Split double folding tailgate with braces so it won't squat when loading. It is spring assisted and very easily removable. All flush mount LED lights. Dual stop/tail/turns with back-up lights. "D" rings welded to the frame all over it. Provision for a future removable side ramp on both sides. Removable front headache with winch block. Heavy enough fenders to drive over if necessary. It's a HEAVY sucker! Should be able to handle 16,000# no problem. Like I said, I'll add pics soon. I tried to take pics, but in the corner it's in it was too dark, pics didn't show up. We finished it and left it sit outside bare so it would rust. Mill scale is hard to blast off. After it was good and rusty, we blasted the frame. It's sitting in the back corner of my shop like that. It was too cold to paint after the blasting was completed, so when it gets warm, it'll get painted, floor put in and wired. CAN'T WAIT! Looked at buying a trailer, and couldn't find one that suited me. Total cost of this build including the cost of the "base" trailer we started with ....... a little over $6K |
#6
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My great grandpa made his in 1950 for motorcycles and then put an oldsmobile truck bed from the 20's on the back and made a wood floor/bed liner and used it for hauling his 125 back in the lates 60's and 70's and then we used it for hauling wood then we had to put fenders on it because it was a violation or something. It also looks kinda like a #2 Trailer.
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Grandpa's 1961 "O" w/ mowing deck, 169, 149, 147, 1000, 125 w/creeper and 3pt, 1250 w/ 44A deck, 1650, Frankenstien 1250, Great Grandpas 1968 Cadet 125 w/original QA-36, CCC 1711, Model 2 tiller, QA-42 and a QA-42A Snowthrower, Cozy cab May not be as much as others, but we're still building our fleet! There are more to come! Connor |
#7
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Guys
Just my 2 cents but consider the potential liability of a failure on a home built. I'm not saying don't do it but make sure it's safe. ![]()
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
#8
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Here's some pics. Maybe I'll get it painted soon......
Front headache and winch block. The block is a hydraulic cylinder rod. So it's HARD and chrome plated. ![]() TL1.1.jpgTL1.2.jpg Adjustable "pin" jack. Adjustable front hitch. Currently with a 2 5/16" Ball, but have a pintle hitch for it for the heavy loads. See the large box tube in the center? It goes back to a make a "T" to sturdy the front hitch and keep it from bending during a hard turn. TL2.1.jpgTL2.2.jpg Some of the welded "D" rings. Also, the square holes are for a side mounted ramp. No ramps made yet, but there is provision on both sides for one. It will insert into the square holes and be a folding ramp. Just easily removable. TL3.jpg The rear ramps. Dual ramps, bi-fold. As you can see they are HEAVY. First pic with them leaned forward. Second pic, pinned in the upright position. Third pic shows both pins. If you have a truck on that is a little long, they will tilt back a little farther, but still be folded up. Even in that tilted position, the rear lights will still be visible. Fourth pic, unfolded. TL4.1.jpgTL4.2.jpg TL4.3.jpgTL4.4.jpg First pic shows the spring for assist. Just pull the clip and when the ramps are tilted forward, the spring will slide off. See the mount? Second pic, the opposite side. Pull the spring, lay the ramp down, pull the second clip, and the ramps just slide to the outside and detach. TL5.1.jpgTL5.2.jpg A view from the rear. If you look, the lights and the "feet" are placed so that if the ramps are in the tilted back position, the feet don't block the lights. TL6.jpg |
#9
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Nj has a new law that you need reciepts for all parts and it has to inspected for certification.. so converting a camper to a flat trailer can't be done unless it has a title.
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#10
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Nice trailer Jon. Those d rings look to be 20k rated? I like the low deck height. So what are you going to pull it with? Ramps look pretty BA as well. I'm seeing 6 cubs on it!
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(2) Original, 100, 102, 124, 73, 800, #1 and #2 cart, brinly plows, disk, IH184, IH244, 1948 F Cub |
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