Cub 100 axle pivot pin alternate

Pswan · #1 01-31-2014, 07:05 PM

My 100 axle pivot pin rusted and broke the spiro pin. Promptly wallowed out the frame so the axle is sloppy. Has anyone had this problem and any easy fixes? I have seen that a 20mm reamer for the axle and frame and a 20 mm bolt. The axle hole is ok so maybe drilling the frame for bushings and reaming for whatever size the original axle pin. Any ideas? I apologize if this has been talked of before, I couldn't find anything here.

sawdustdad · #2 01-31-2014, 10:14 PM

The axles that I've worked on had more play due to the channel that the axle fits into being spread apart than wear in the pin. Check to see if that is more the problem in your axle. There is no easy way to put in a larger pin or weld on new bushings to go back with an original pin. It's certainly doable, but not so easy. You might be able to tighten it up by squeezing the channel together with a 3/4 inch bolt and a nut. that might give you the results you need with just replacing the pin with a new one. Some others here have actually used a 3/4 inch bolt in place of the pin, but I've never tried that.

Post some pics of what your axle pin bushings look like.

And welcome to the forum!

Pswan · #3 02-01-2014, 07:52 AM

Thank you for the reply. The frame holes are actually worn to a larger size. Seems the front hole is worn more than the back. A co-worker gave me this tractor, it sat out for a number of years after it threw a rod and everything is glue together with rust. It appears that some time back when running the axle pin rusted solid with the axle and broke the retaining pin. The frame is at a friends who has a shop press to get the pin out or I would post a picture. The frame "ears" are straight. I am leaning toward reaming the axle and frame holes for a larger shoulder bolt or welding bushings into the frame. I haven't had a chance to measure the original axle pin. So it is 3/4 inch?
Pete

PaulS · #4 02-01-2014, 10:02 AM

Not having much knowledge of this subject except for changing a pin in a 102 that fixed my problem. I recall trying to replace the pin in my other 102 and could not budge that booger. I don't know the hardness of the pin but suspect it is quite hard as it supports all the weight of the front of the tractor. Or it may be softer so it wears before the holes in the axle houseing. If you plan on replacing the pin with a bolt try to get a bolt with the same hardness as the original pin.

Pswan · #5 02-01-2014, 11:04 AM

Good idea on bolt harness. I figured I would put a grade 8 bolt or original style pin back in. It might be a while before I get this fixed (cold weather and unheated garage) but will let you know what becomes of this if interested.
Pete

J-Mech · #6 02-01-2014, 11:48 AM

Cut the bushings off the front bolster, and have new ones made and weld them on. Bore the axle and bushing it.

Muzzy · #7 02-01-2014, 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Cut the bushings off the front bolster, and have new ones made and weld them on. Bore the axle and bushing it.

That's the best way to fix it.

Yosemite Sam · #8 02-02-2014, 05:11 PM

Seems to me that someone posted awhile back that someone was making new bushings to weld back onto the bolster.

Pswan · #9 02-05-2014, 07:54 AM

I ordered replacement frame bushings from Patton acres. Will let you know how the replacement process goes. Looks to be an easy process.
Pete

Pswan · #10 02-08-2014, 07:19 AM

Received the new bushing yesterday. They look great, fast shipping too. Does anyone know if the original bushings were welded from the factory? Maybe paint is hiding the welds but they sure look to be simply pressed in. Tried to press them out but they wouldn't budge. I guess I'll have to cut off the exposed portion and beat out the collar that goes through the frame. Thanks for all the replies.
Pete