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  #1  
Old 02-07-2014, 12:54 PM
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charlie105 charlie105 is offline
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Default 105 driveshaft Spirol pin, dowel pin ?

Sheared the coil pin at the drive shaft front coupler. Bought the pin at Ace hardware from the Hillman or Mcmaster Carr bin. The pin has been in duty for about a year since I bought a new drive shaft from Brian Miller. I have read multiple posts here, and in the CC parts list that the 105 requires a steel dowel pin, not a tension or a coil pin. So 2 questions; Was the coil pin not hard enough.? What grade of dowel pin should I be qetting ? Dowel pins seem to be available in different;grades,hardness, and configurations. Thanks
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Old 02-07-2014, 01:50 PM
Yosemite Sam Yosemite Sam is offline
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Odd, I tried a spiral pin in one of my 123s one time, it only lasted a few minutes.

I can't tell you what "grade" the pin is, but it is pretty HARD. I would guess it's at least as hard as a grade 8 bolt.
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Old 02-07-2014, 03:35 PM
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Default 105 drive shaft dowel pin

I think so too. Just trying to narrow down the specs for the 1-1/2" x 1/4" pin. For example; standard,hardened,machined & hardened,draw pin, chrome moly........ Thanks.
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Old 02-07-2014, 03:47 PM
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i think you want a tough pin, not necessarily a hard one. Like 8620 (chrome-nickel-moly) alloy. Hard exterior, ductile interior.
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Old 02-08-2014, 08:47 AM
Dave R Dave R is offline
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Default Spiral pin?

If the pin is as tough as a grade 8 bolt, why not just use a grade 8 bolt? Tape a spare under the hood, if it breaks you will be just as far from the shop as you can get, or in the middle of the road.

I used a hard pin in mine last time it gave up, but doubt that I do that again. I'll just go with a bolt.
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Old 02-08-2014, 12:58 PM
Yosemite Sam Yosemite Sam is offline
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I think the problem with a bolt is that it will woller the hole in the shaft out, eventually causing the end of the shaft to break off.
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Old 02-08-2014, 01:19 PM
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macman81 macman81 is offline
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My case-IH dealer had the correct one in stock for about $7. Why chance it with one from a hardware store? It's a very specific size a bolt will not fit tight in the shaft and ruin it over time.
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Old 02-08-2014, 01:35 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macman81 View Post
My case-IH dealer had the correct one in stock for about $7. Why chance it with one from a hardware store? It's a very specific size a bolt will not fit tight in the shaft and ruin it over time.
I agree!!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Yosemite Sam View Post
I think the problem with a bolt is that it will woller the hole in the shaft out, eventually causing the end of the shaft to break off.
This will happen.


Quote:
Originally Posted by sawdustdad View Post
i think you want a tough pin, not necessarily a hard one. Like 8620 (chrome-nickel-moly) alloy. Hard exterior, ductile interior.
This is the difference between the correct pin, and a bolt. The hard outer keeps it from wearing, the ductile inner keeps it from breaking/shearing under a "jerk" load, such as sudden hydro movement, sudden traction under wheel slip, and engine acceleration.

Team work boys!!! Everyone makes a good point!
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Old 02-08-2014, 06:45 PM
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charlie105 charlie105 is offline
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Thanks everyone for your insights. Headed to Watermans Tractor (the IH Cub dealer) on Monday for the right pin,and a spare. Considering that this is a narrow frame, I will try to install the pin with the shaft on the tractor. Does the pin have to be pressed, or driven in, and should I coat it with Never sieze? Again Thanks
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Old 02-09-2014, 05:07 PM
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Best way to install pin; Drive, or press ? Coated with "Never sieze", or dry? I want to do it on the tractor.
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