127 electrical / starter issue

Craneridge Cub · #1 12-16-2013, 01:30 PM

OK, so I had thought I solved all of my wiring and cranking issues but I'm still striking out with this cub. I had corrected a bad ground wire and a loose belt and had her cranking pretty good. Then I had a valve stuck so I tore her down and ground the valves, replaced the head gasket, and while I was at it replaced the points, condenser, coil, and plug. I finally got it all back together and was ready to do the maiden fire up and it's cranking really slow, I mean barely turning it. My battery dies in a matter of about a dozen turns and it's not turning fast enough to fire (before I had the ground issue it was turning slow but still enough to fire if the battery was fresh). The Armature post on the st/gen gets really hot. We're currently getting pounded with snow and the tractor is outside so I don't have much luxury to troubleshoot, etc. And insights as to what would cause this??

Gregory · #2 12-16-2013, 01:47 PM

My first thought and I know you don't want to hear this, is a winding in the starter/gen may be going bad. This would be time for a re-build. This would also explain the excess current draw causing the battery to die quickly. I've had about 3 rebuilt for each one of my tractors so far and had to fix a friends 100 which had a ground issue. The shop which rebuilt the start/gen's told me specifically not to tighten this belt like that of of an alternator of a car. These start/gen units have a bushing at the rear and over tightening the belt put stress on the rear of the armature shaft. This will wear it out the bushing prematurely and there is only one manufacture left in the country. I've also found a bad ground will result in chasing your tail trying to figure out whats going on, but it sounds like you've fixed these issues. My last suggestion to any CC owner and the one I found works best for me is to route the main ground wires to the start/gen casing where it connects and mounts on the tractor. This has solved many a problem for me.
Just some thoughts!

Yosemite Sam · #3 12-16-2013, 02:43 PM

Stop monkeying around with it and get to the root of the problem.

Turn the engine by hand to make sure it turns easy as it should (grinding the valves doesn't correct the sticking problem).

Hook your jumper cables from your (running) car or truck directly to the S/G. POS to the "A" terminal and ground to the rear bolt that holds the S/G to it's bracket (in that order). The S/G should spin the engine like crazy. If everything (Fuel, Air mixture & Spark) are right, the engine should start.

If your S/G is still acting up then the S/G is the problem and no amount of fiddling with wires or connections is going to get you started today.

If the S/G turns the engine as it should, then the problem is either with the wiring (including connections) or the battery. Because of the material that the wire looms on the 1X6/7 series tractors were made from, they are notorious for corroding the wires inside of the insulation.

I suggest that if you have more than a couple of issues with the wiring on a 1X6/7 series tractor, order a new one from one of the aftermarket manufacturers, and take the old one to your local scrap dealer (BTW, I am almost NEVER an advocate of "throw it away and buy a new one", but in this case I am).

J-Mech · #4 12-16-2013, 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yosemite Sam

Stop monkeying around with it and get to the root of the problem.

Turn the engine by hand to make sure it turns easy as it should (grinding the valves doesn't correct the sticking problem).

Hook your jumper cables from your (running) car or truck directly to the S/G. POS to the "A" terminal and ground to the rear bolt that holds the S/G to it's bracket (in that order). The S/G should spin the engine like crazy. If everything (Fuel, Air mixture & Spark) are right, the engine should start.

If your S/G is still acting up then the S/G is the problem and no amount of fiddling with wires or connections is going to get you started today.

If the S/G turns the engine as it should, then the problem is either with the wiring (including connections) or the battery. Because of the material that the wire looms on the 1X6/7 series tractors were made from, they are notorious for corroding the wires inside of the insulation.

I suggest that if you have more than a couple of issues with the wiring on a 1X6/7 series tractor, order a new one from one of the aftermarket manufacturers, and take the old one to your local scrap dealer (BTW, I am almost NEVER an advocate of "throw it away and buy a new one", but in this case I am).