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  #1  
Old 08-04-2013, 11:26 AM
Nightow1 Nightow1 is offline
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Default Brake question on my model 70

I have a model 70 I'm making in to a pulling tractor. I replaced all the seals/gaskets,and cleaned it up real nice. I noticed the break doesn't seem to want to push in, the ball seems to be stuck.. Is it just real hard to push in or am i going to have to do something to i. If so what can I do to fix this, the break and all the gears look perfect and it was pretty clean for sitting over 15 years.
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  #2  
Old 08-05-2013, 12:56 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Take the front cover off and drive the brake rod out. Clean it up and reassemble it. There is an o-ring on the pushrod. Make sure you change it.
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Old 08-05-2013, 01:31 AM
Nightow1 Nightow1 is offline
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i haven't changed the O ring, but the but I have taken of the front plate, break lever , and pin. I can see the ball, I just cant seem for the life of me to get it to move even taped on it a bit lightly and nothing.????
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  #4  
Old 08-05-2013, 01:39 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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It's stuck. Hit it harder! LOL Soak it in PB blaster. Gotta get it to move!
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  #5  
Old 08-05-2013, 01:46 AM
Nightow1 Nightow1 is offline
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yea i panther-pissed the heck out of it. going to let it sit for the night and see how that works.
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  #6  
Old 08-06-2013, 12:56 AM
Yosemite Sam Yosemite Sam is offline
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Go to one of the sites that have exploded views and see what all is there and how it all goes together.

There is a "plug" behind the push rod and metal ball. The plug is what has the "O" ring on it (not the rod) and it is most likely rusted/frozen in its bore.

You may have to remove the casting and drive the plug out of the casting.

The plug has a disk type puck made of brake lining glued to it, if you are careful you may be able to get the plug out without damaging the brake puck.

Once removed, clean the plug, clean the bore and replace the "O" ring.
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Old 08-06-2013, 10:04 AM
cjrolke cjrolke is offline
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that is exactly what I am doing to my 100

the brake was froze on in the rear

It took some persuasion with a hammer and a chisel to get it to move and now its freed up.

I was able to get a replacement o-ring 1-3/16 id 1-3/8 od 3/32 thick at the local ace hardware for $0.52

just have to re assemble it tonight
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Old 08-10-2013, 08:42 PM
Nightow1 Nightow1 is offline
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OK I need help bad, I have removed the reduction housing, gear reduction drive, and the break disk. I have looked all over the net and cant find a detailed description of how to remove the break retainer and the disk.

Can someone please help me, I'm dead in the water here and I hate to leave it apart to long.
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Old 08-10-2013, 08:49 PM
Nightow1 Nightow1 is offline
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Also while I have it apart should I replace the 2 bearings in the front?
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  #10  
Old 08-10-2013, 09:28 PM
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We need pics to see what's going on.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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