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#1
06-01-2013, 02:43 PM
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Need help with clutch adjustment on 1200
Forum newbie here
I have a 1980 model 1200 and the clutch quit working. I found the 90degree end of the clutch rod broken off. Ordered a replacement and tried to install back as close as I could to original position, but I can not get the clutch to engage. No matter what, if it is in gear the tractor is going to move. If I get it into neutral it will stop moving but going back into gear is like there is no clutch no matter if the pedal is depressed or not. 
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#2
06-01-2013, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
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#3
06-01-2013, 06:50 PM
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Take up the slack with the adjustment nut until the clutch pedal only has about 1/4" to 3/8" movement from its stop bracket where it rests when not in use.
You can also go to our Tractor Technical library and download the service manual for your series of Cub and it will walk you thru the adjustment.
__________________
DWayne 1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck 10" moldboard plow 2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP
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#4
06-01-2013, 08:35 PM
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Welcome to OCC! Nice to see another NC member! Good luck with your 1200.
__________________
Allen Proud owner of my Original and 126! My Grandpa's Cart Craftsman Lawn Sweeper Craftsman Plug Aerator
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#6
06-02-2013, 12:09 PM
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Hopefully this will help
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#7
06-02-2013, 06:47 PM
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RDKLXPRS, after you replaced the rod did you adjust the clutch linkage? The correct specs to adjust the linkage can be found on page 2-24 of the service manual, page 24 of the owners manual. With the tractor off and the brake pedal depressed and locked, does the rear clutch plate in the picture you posted move freely? It should move forward and back along the spirol pin shown in your pic, enough so that the clutch disc is not compressed between the 2 clutch plates.
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#8
06-03-2013, 01:55 AM
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If the first pic is of the drive shaft with the pedal pushed down then everything looks like it should (as far as the space between the rear plate and spacer and the throw out bearing goes) except, I don't see a teaser spring in there...
If you look at the area where the spiral pin goes through the slot in the rear plate and the drive shaft, you can see just a little space between the front of the pin and the forward most part of the slot (in the plate). The plate should move freely (with the pedal pushed down) so it can travel rearward to the point where the spiral pin will "bottom out" in the slot. If it does not, then that is why the clutch won't release. Push the pedal down and lock it with the "parking brake" then try to wiggle the clutch between the front and rear plate to make them separate. If the plates and clutch disk are free to move (within their parameters) then the front bushing/bearing is most likely binding. There still should be a teaser spring in there...
__________________
More IH Cub Cadet Parts RIGHT HERE
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
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